LEAVES  OF 
KNOWLEDGE 


I/ 


LEAVES 

OF 

KNOWLEDGE 


BY 


ELMA  MACGIBBON 


COPYRIGHT,   1904 

BY 

ELMA  MACGIBBON 


SHAW   &   BORDEN  CO. 

PRINTERS  AND   PUBLISHERS 

SPOKANE 

S7426 


Bancroft 


CONTENTS 


Chapter  Page 

I.   Salem,  the  Capital  of  Oregon         .         .  15 

II.   Astoria  and  the  Columbia  River    .         ,  21 

III.   Portland,  the  Western  Hub  .         .         .  29 

^J«                  IV.   Eastern  and  Southern  Montana      .         .  35 

Q>                   V.   The  Willamette  Valley         ...  43 

VI.   Great  Falls,  Montana— Boise,  the  Capital 

[•*                               of  Idaho   .          .          .          .          .          .  51 

^  VII.   Walla  Walla   and   Southeastern  Wash- 

<£                             ington        .         .         .         .         .         .  59 

VIII.   Western  Montana       ...         .  67 

J                  IX.    Butte  and  Anaconda     .         .         .         .  75 

X.   The  Columbia  River  and  Pullman          .  81 
XI.   The  Palouse  Country  and  Northern 

££                              Montana  ...         .         .         .  89 

O               XII.   Helena  and  Eastern  Montana         .         .  97 

~l              XIII.    Spokane  and  the  Inland  Empire     .         .  107 

>T             XIV.   Victoria  and  Vancouver,  B.  C.      .         .  115 

^  XV.    Bellingham  and  Everett          .         .         .125 

XVI.   Seattle,  the  City  of  Destiny    .         .         .  131 

XVII.   Tacoma,  and  Olympia,  the  Capital  of 

Washington 137 

XVIII.    Northern  Oregon,  Southern  and  Eastern 

Idaho      .         .         /.      .   *     .         .  145 

XIX.   Eastern  Trip  to  St.  Louis     .        .        .  157 


CONTENTS— CONTINUED 


Chapter  Page 

XX.   Historic  Scenes  on  the  Potomac        .  165 
XXI.   Washington,  D.  C,  the  Nation's 

Capital         .         .         ...  173 

XXII.  Greater  New  York         .        ,        .  183 

XXIII.  Boston,  the  Eastern  Hub          .         .  191 

XXIV.  Fredericton  and  the  Maritime  Prov 

inces   199 

XXV.   Westward  to  Chicago      ...  207 

XXVI.  St.  Paul  to  Livingston      .         .         .  215 

XXVII.  The  Yellowstone  National  Park       .  223 
XXVIII.  Montana's  Capital  .         .         .         .  231 


INTRODUCTION 


I  HAVE  had  the  opportunity,  during  the  las! 
few  years,  to  travel  very  extensively  through 
out  the  West,  and  considerable  in  the  East, 
with  my  husband,  and  finding  people  in  gen 
eral  greatly  interested  in  my  oral  description  of 
the  numerous  places  I  have  visited,  I  decided 
to  give  a  history  of  the  many  cities  and  their 
surroundings  as  I  saw  them  during  my  visits,  at 
different  seasons  of  the  year. 

Realizing  that  it  will  be  of  interest  and  infor 
mation  to  the  reading  public,  I  now  present  to 
you  my  LEAVES  OF  KNOWLEDGE. 

ELMA  MACGIBBON. 


CHAPTER  I. 
Salem,  the  Capital  of  Oregon. 

On  the  28th  day  of  September,  1898, 
I  arrived  in  the  City  of  Portland,  Ore 
gon,  after  a  journey  of  eight  days  from 
the  Atlantic  coast,  this  being  my  fifth 
trip  across  the  American  Continent.  My 
husband,  or  Mac,  as  he  is  usually  called, 
met  me  on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia 
river,  at  the  town  of  Kalama,  State  of 
Washington.  As  the  entire  train  is 
placed  on  the  ferryboat,  I  got  out  to 
view  the  beautiful  river,  remaining 
there  until  we  reached  Goble,  on  the 
Oregon  shore,  where  the  train  pulled 
off  the  boat  for  my  destination.  Arriv 
ing  at  the  Union  Depot,  we  took  a  coach 
and  repaired  to  a  suite  of  rooms,  which 
Mac  had  secured  for  me  on  Seventh 
street.  The  rooms  were  splendidly  fur- 
15 


Leaves       of      Knowledge 

nished,  but  in  the  back  room,  sitting  on 
a  table  was  a  little  machine  with  a  long 
rubber  tube  running  from  it  to  the  ceil 
ing;  this  arrangement  was  called  a  gas 
stove.  I  looked  at  this  so-called  stove 
with  disgust.  Being  the  first  one  I  had 
ever  seen  I  felt  sure  I  never  could  cook 
anything  on  it.  I  only  stayed  here  one 
day,  and  moved  to  a  private  boarding- 
house. 

And,  Oh!  ye  people  of  this  conti 
nent,  what  a  boarding-house,  for  ele 
gant  rooms  was  all  they  had,  and  they 
all  showed  at  this  house  that  their  main 
food  was  Oregon  mist.  However,  as 
Portland  is  such  a  paradise  to  live  in,  I 
managed  to  exist  one  month.  When, 
after  being  relieved  of  my  purse  and 
money,  which  has  never  yet  been  re 
turned  to  me,  I  notified  Mac  that  I 
would  go  with  him  up  to  Salem,  or  start 
back  to  that  dear  Montana  home  where 

16 


Salem,  the  Capital  of  Oregon 

I  had  lived  for  eight  happy  years,  and 
as  the  courts  of  that  state  are  known 
for  their  lenient  divorce  decisions,  he 
at  once  complied  with  my  request,  came 
down  for  me  and  I  moved  next  day  to 
the  Willamette  Hotel,  arriving  there 
at  8 130  p.  m. 

After  unpacking  my  trunks  we  re 
tired,  but  had  scarcely  got  to  sleep  when 
I  heard  such  cries  and  pleadings,  which 
seemed  to  be  out  in  the  yard.  I  sprang 
from  the  bed  and  on  going  out  into  our 
front  room,  I  knocked  my  foot  against 
one  of  the  trunks,  cutting  my  toe  open, 
but  was  so  excited  just  then  I  did  not 
think  of  it  until  later  on.  After  looking 
out  of  the  window  and  not  seeing  any 
one,  only  to  hear  the  pleading,  "Oh !  do 
not  murder  me,  boys,  my  poor  wife 
and  children,  what  will  become  of 
them?  Please,  boys,  do  not  kill  me." 
I  then  went  back  to  bed.  When,  lo !  in 
17 


Leaves       of      Knowledge 

a  few  minutes,  glass  began  to  break; 
we  both  jumped  then,  and  looking  out 
could  see  a  man  in  his  shirt-sleeves 
standing  on  the  roof  of  the  conserva 
tory,  while  men  were  standing  below, 
coaxing  him  to  come  down,  which  he 
finally  did,  after  they  had  promised  not 
to  murder  him.  They,  of  course,  were 
employes  of  the  hotel.  He  was  taken 
from  there  to  the  waiting  room,  we  still 
hearing  the  screams,  and  as  soon  as  a 
coach  arrived  he  went  to  the  hospital. 
I  heard  later  that  he  was  a  traveling 
man  and  the  trouble  was  he  had  mixed 
a  little  too  much  Kentucky  Rye  with 
Oregon  mist.  Now,  my  friends,  you 
can  realize  my  feelings  in  the  second 
city  I  had  visited  in  Oregon. 

Salem  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
Willamette  river,  about  fifty  miles  south 
of  Portland,  and  is  one  of  the  state  capi 
tals  that  succeeded  in  getting  all  the 
18 


Salem,   the  Capital  of  Oregon 

principal  state  public  buildings  located 
there.  I  visited  the  insane  asylum, 
where,  at  that  time,  eleven  hundred  and 
eighty-five  persons  were  being  cared 
for,  with  every  possible  comfort.  They 
have  beautiful  grounds,  magnificent 
buildings,  with  large  bakery  and  butch 
er  shop  combined.  A  little  to  the  right 
is  the  orphans  home.  Here  I  found 
thirty-five  children,  their  ages  ranging 
from  one  to  fourteen  years,  the  older 
ones  helping  to  care  for  the  little  ones. 
The  matron  seemed  very  kind  and  fond 
of  them  all,  and  each  room  was  in  per 
fect  order.  A  short  distance  to  the  left 
of  the  asylum  is  the  penitentiary,  where 
seven  hundred  and  eighty  Oregonians 
were  enjoying  themselves  to  the  height 
of  their  ambition.  The  reform  school 
and  the  Indian  school  are  near  here.  A 
large  woolen  mill  is  also  in  active  oper- 


19 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

ation  within  the  city  limits.    The  Wil 
lamette  University  is  also  in  Salem. 

On  the  morning  of  December  3ist,  I 
took  the  train  for  Portland. 


20 


ASTORIA  AND  THE 
COLUMBIA  RIVER 


CHAPTER  II. 
Astoria  and  the  Columbia  River. 

On  January  2nd,  1899,  I  left  on  the 
steamer  Telephone,  for  Astoria.  This 
was  certainly  a  grand  trip,  though  it 
was  snowing  at  times  and  quite  cold. 
After  sailing  down  the  Willamette  riv 
er,  past  the  old  City  of  St.  John  into 
the  broader  waters  of  the  Columbia,  a 
distance  of  one  hundred  miles ;  stopping 
at  St.  Helen,  Rainier  and  Mayger  on 
the  Oregon  side  of  the  river,  as  well  as 
Kalama  and  Cathlamet  on  the  Wash 
ington  side,  I  arrived  at  Astoria,  the 
second  city  of  Oregon  in  population, 
at  4  p.  m.,  having  enjoyed  a  delightful 
sail  on  this  inland  arm  of  the  sea,  which 
is  navigable  for  the  largest  ocean  ves 
sels  during  all  seasons  of  the  year. 

I  remained  at  Astoria  during  the  en- 
23 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

tire  winter  and  summer.  The  main  in 
dustry  of  this  seaport  town  is  fishing. 
Here  is  the  home  of  the  royal  chinook 
salmon  and  at  no  other  place  in  the 
world  is  the  salmon  found  of  such  su 
perior  quality  as  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  river,  and  during  the  entire 
fishing  season  the  canneries  and  cold 
storage  plants  are  busy  preparing  sal 
mon  to  ship  to  all  parts  of  the  globe. 

Every  evening  I  could  see  about  two 
thousand  boats  starting  out  with  two 
men  in  each  boat;  some  come  back  in 
the  morning  with  their  beauties  and 
some  perhaps  stay  a  day  or  two,  while 
at  times  some  never  return,  as  they  be 
come  careless  getting  over  the  bar  in 
the  swift  ocean  waters,  and  before  they 
realize  their  danger  their  boats  would 
be  upset  and  they  would  go  to  the  bot 
tom  ;  in  spite  of  all  the  efforts  made  by 
the  life-saving  crews  to  save  them. 
24 


Astoria  and    the   Columbia   River 

After  weighing,  the  fish  are  cut  up 
and  placed  in  cans  to  be  boiled,  having 
first  removed  the  large  bones.  After 
being  boiled,  a  hole  is  made  in  the  top 
of  the  can  allowing  the  steam  to  escape, 
and  after  cooling,  the  hole  is  again  seal 
ed  up.  The  cans  are  then  dipped  into 
a  preparation  for  coloring  them,  which 
shows  that  they  are  perfectly  air-tight; 
they  are  then  wrapped  with  paper  which 
advertises  the  quality  of  fish  and  the  es 
tablishment  where  they  were  canned. 
The  cans  are  then  packed  into  cases, 
ready  for  the  markets. 

I  have  pictures  in  my  possession  of 
salmon  weighing  seventy-four  pounds 
each,  this  being  the  kind  that  are  usu 
ally  canned,  whereas  the  smaller  vari 
eties  are  packed  in  the  cold  storage 
plants. 

I  visited  Warrington  and  Flavell, 
across  Youngs  Bay,  and  New  Astoria 
25 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

and  Fort  Stevens,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  river,  where  is  situated  the 
fortifications  of  the  United  States  Gov 
ernment,  which  were  greatly  strength 
ened  during  the  Spanish- American  war. 
Opposite  here  are  Fort  Canby  and  Fort 
Columbia. 

I  used  to  enjoy  the  Sunday  excur 
sions  to  Seaside,  where  hundreds  were 
bathing  in  the  surf.  This  brings  to  my 
mind  what  happened  to  me  one  day,  and 
I  will  give  it  to  you.  The  tide  was 
coming  in,  yet  still  seemed  very  quiet. 
As  the  waves  would  go  out  a  little,  I 
followed  them  to  take  a  picture  of  Tilla- 
mook  rock  and  lighthouse;  had  just 
got  in  a  good  position  with  my  kodak 
when  in  came  a  large  wave  which  nearly 
overpowered  me.  Seemingly  I  could 
not  move  I  was  so  astonished.  Mac 
came  running  after  me,  seeing  my  dan 
ger  from  a  distance.  I  then  had  to  go 
26 


Astoria    and   the  Columbia   River 

to  the  hotel  for  repairs  and  to  get  the 
sand  from  my  clothing. 

The  Astorians  pay  very  little  atten 
tion  to  the  Fourth  of  July,  Thanksgiv 
ing,  or  other  legal  holidays,  but  com 
memorate  the  close  of  the  fishing  sea 
son  by  a  three  days'  regatta,  at  which 
are  gathered  sportsmen  from  all  over 
the  Pacific  coast.  The  young  lady  who 
receives  the  greatest  number  of  votes 
cast  for  queen  of  the  occasion  is  con 
sidered  highly  honored.  The  three 
days'  celebration  which  I  witnessed 
were  occupied  in  boat-racing  by  the 
fishermen's  sail-boats,  double  sculled 
row-boats,  large  sailing  yachts  and  a 
fine  performance  by  the  life-saving 
crews,  swimming  contests,  high  diving 
and  the  divers  with  their  diving-suits, 
and  finally  the  balloon  ascension,  which 
was  a  perfect  success,  the  aeronaut  go 
ing  up  about  two  thousand  feet  and 
27 


Leaves       of      Knowledge 

coming  down  with  the  assistance  of  his 
parachute.  There  were  also  a  number  of 
land  sports,  besides  the  Grand  Ball, 
presided  over  by  the  Queen  of  the  Re 
gatta. 

The  City  of  Astoria  is  situated  on 
the  south  bank  of  the  Columbia,  the 
river  here  being  about  five  miles  wide. 
It  has  an  excellent  harbor,  with  im 
portant  shipping  interests,  besides  saw 
mills  and  lumbering  industries.  Above 
the  city  is  the  government  lighthouse 
at  Tongue  Point.  Across  the  river  are 
large  saw-mills  at  Knappton,  Washing 
ton. 

On  the  26th  day  of  August,  I  re 
turned  by  train  to  Portland,  where  I 
resided  for  the  remainder  of  the  year. 


PORTLAND,  THE 
WESTERN  HUB 


CHAPTER  III. 
Portland,  the  Western  Hub. 

Portland  is  the  great  shipping  center 
for  the  entire  State  of  Oregon  and 
eastern  Washington,  brought  thither 
on  boats  from  the  Columbia  and  Wil 
lamette  rivers  and  by  rail  over  the  dif 
ferent  railroads  having  their  terminals 
here.  Nature  has  done  much  for  this 
principal  and  largest  city  in  Oregon, 
built  on  both  sides  and  having  a  natural 
slope  to  the  Willamette  river,  which  is 
spanned  by  four  bridges,  in  addition  to 
the  boat  traffic.  The  most  important 
business  houses  are  situated  on  the 
West  side,  while  across  the  river  on  the 
east  are  the  large  flour  and  saw-mills, 
besides  the  extensive  warehouses  and 
wharfs  from  which  vessels  are  loaded 
for  shipment  to  all  parts  of  the  globe. 
31 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

On  both  sides  are  the  fine  residences, 
beautiful  lawns  and  numerous  parks, 
at  only  thirty  feet  above  the  sea  level, 
while  in  plain  view  I  can  see  Mount 
Hood  with  its  snow-capped  peak  tower 
ing  11,934  feet  high,  as  well  as  Mount 
Rainier,  14,532  feet;  also  Mt.  St.  Hel 
ens,  with  an  elevation  of  9,750  feet. 
Surely  such  grandeur  cannot  be  found 
elsewhere,  with  every  variety  of  climate 
and  every  industry  at  its  very  doors.  It 
is  a  day  well  spent  to  visit  the  City  Park 
and  Portland  Heights,  beside  a  num 
ber  of  street  car  rides ;  one  being  to  the 
Falls  of  the  Willamette  at  Oregon  City, 
where  there  is  an  extensive  water  pow 
er,  large  saw-mills,  and  an  immense 
paper  mill.  Another  pleasant  car  ride 
was  to  Vancouver,  Washington,  the 
government  trading  and  supply  fort  for 
the  Northwest.  The  day  I  visited  Van 
couver  how  I  displeased  a  photograph- 
32 


Portland,    the    Western    Hub 

er.  He  had  his  studio  in  a  rather  di 
lapidated  looking  old  tent;  he  saw  me 
stopping  with  my  kodak  and  came  to 
the  door  and  looked  in  disgust  at  me, 
saying,  "fire  away."  I  smiled,  thanked 
him,  and  fired,  which  I  had  certainly 
intended  to  do.  I  als'o  made  a  pleasant 
trip  to  Aberdeen,  Washington,  on 
Grays  Harbor. 

Portland  is  a  prominent  railway  cen 
ter  and  terminus  of  several  steamer 
lines;  steamships  making  regular  trips 
to  the  Orient  and  San  Francisco,  Cali 
fornia,  the  largest  city  on  the  Pacific 
coast. 

After  spending  an  enjoyable  time 
in  Portland,  I  left  for  Butte,  Mon 
tana,  over  the  Northern  Pacific  Rail 
way,  as  the  courtesies  and  attention  of 
the  employes  on  that  road  make  travel 
ling  a  pleasure. 


33 


EASTERN  AND  SOUTHERN 
MONTANA 


CHAPTER  IV. 
Eastern  and  Southern  Montana. 

After  remaining  in  Butte  a  short 
time,  I  went  on  to  Billings,  Montana. 
Arriving  there  I  found  the  thermom 
eter  28  below  zero,  which  seemed  a  lit 
tle  chilly  to  me,  as  I  had  been  on  the 
Pacific  coast  for  the  last  two  winters. 
Billings  is  the  largest  and  most  pros 
perous  city  in  Eastern  Montana.  The 
main  industries  are  cattle  and  sheep 
raising.  I  will  take  this  place  up  again. 

At  Red  Lodge  are  situated  the  great 
Rocky  Fork  coal  mines,  owned  and 
operated  by  the  Northern  Pacific  Rail 
way  Company. 

The  town  of  Big  Timber,  which  has 
not  a  tree  within  its  limits  (as  one 
would  imagine  there  would  be  by  its 
37 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

name)  is  the  center  and  distributing 
point  of  an  extensive  stock  country. 

Livingston,  the  division  headquarters 
of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway,  is 
where  the  branch  extends  to  the  Yel 
lowstone  National  Park,  a  distance  by 
rail  of  fifty-four  miles  to  Gardner,  the 
entrance  to  the  park. 

At  Bozeman,  my  next  stop,  is  located 
the  State  College  of  Agriculture  and 
Mechanic  Arts.  Here  are  the  rich 
farms  of  the  Gallatin  valley,  which  are 
noted  for  their  production  of  barley, 
rye  and  wheat.  The  barley  makes  a 
superior  quality  of  malt  which  is  used 
in  making  beer.  Here  are  also  large 
flour  mills,  and  at  Belgrade  and  still 
further  west  are  the  mills  of  Manhat 
tan  where  straw  is  manufactured  into 
paper.  At  the  head  of  the  valley  is 
Logan,  the  division  of  the  roads  going 
either  to  Butte  or  Helena.  A  few  miles 
38 


Eastern    and    Southern    Montana 

west,  on  the  Helena  line,  is  the  junc 
tion  of  the  Gallatin,  Madison  and  Jef 
ferson  rivers,  commonly  called  the 
Three  Forks  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  the 
head  of  the  Missouri  river.  At  White 
hall  a  branch  line  extends  to  Twin 
Bridges,  where  the  State  Home  for  Or 
phans  is  located ;  and  the  famous  Alder 
Gulch  and  Virginia  City,  where  in  the 
early  sixties  there  resided  over  thirty 
thousand  persons  and  over  ninety-five 
millions  of  dollars  were  taken  from  its 
placer  mines.  At  the  present  time  Vir 
ginia  City  has  numerous  rich  gold  pro 
ducing  quartz  mines,  and  the  patriotic 
citizens  are  beginning  to  realize  pros 
perity  as  in  the  days  of  yore.  Also  on 
the  same  line  is  Sheridan,  where  there 
are  a  number  of  valuable  gold  mines; 
the  town  is  advancing  rapidly. 

At  Whitehall  I  again  take  the  train 
branching   off   at   Sappington   on  the 
39 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

Pony  and  Norris  branches.  Pony  was 
formerly  one  of  the  early  placer  mining 
camps  and  is  now  a  thriving  town,  hav 
ing  a  number  of  producing  gold  quartz 
mines,  with  large  concentrators  and 
mills.  At  Norris,  Red  Bluff  and  Sterl 
ing  are  mines  and  mills  in  active  oper 
ation. 

Going  back  to  Butte,  I  take  the  Ore 
gon  Short  Line  to  Dillon,  where  the 
State  Normal  School  is  located,  and 
which  is  the  largest  and  most  prosper 
ous  city  in  southern  Montana.  Here 
is  the  center  and  distributing  point  for 
the  Big  Hole  cattle  country  and  the 
many  surrounding  mining  camps.  Red 
Rock  is  an  important  cattle  shipping 
station  and  stage  depot.  From  here 
the  Concord  stages  daily  arrive  and  de 
part  for  Salmon  City,  Gibbonsville  and 
other  towns  of  Central  Idaho.  Lima  is 
a  division  on  the  Oregon  Short  Line 

40 


Eastern    and    Southern    Montana 

Railway.  From  Monida  stages  make 
regular  trips  to  the  Yellowstone  Nation 
al  Park. 

As  the  summers  are  so  pleasant  on 
the  Pacific  coast,  I  then  made  a  trip  to 
that  fashionable  res'ort,  Newport,  Ore 
gon. 


41 


THE  WILLAMETTE  VALLEY 


CHAPTER  V. 
The  Willamette  Valley. 

At  Yaquina  Bay,  where  Newport  is 
situated,  the  government  has  expended 
considerable  money  for  the  improve 
ment  of  the  harbor,  and  though  the 
place  is  a  fine  summer  resort,  there  is 
no  extensive  shipping  done.  It  is  a 
most  beautiful  place  to  while  away  the 
hot  summer  days,  with  fishing,  boat 
ing  and  bathing  in  the  surf.  Here  is 
the  terminus  of  the  Corvallis  &  Eastern 
Railway,  at  the  town  of  Yaquina,  the 
principal  offices  being  at  Albany,  where 
the  road  connects  with  and  crosses  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railway.  It  is  pictur 
esque  to  travel  through  the  Willamette 
valley  at  this  season  of  the  year  and  to 
see  the  trees  with  their  branches  hang 
ing  to  the  ground,  laden  with  delicious 
45 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

fruit,  and  at  the  hotels  to  see  them 
picking  fresh  fruit  for  the  tables.  We 
Butte  smoke-eaters  do  not  get  our  fruit 
that  way.  Albany  is  supplied  with  a 
woolen  mill  and  flour  mills,  an  iron 
foundry,  and  is  an  important  railway 
center,  besides  considerable  shipping  be 
ing  done  on  the  river.  It  is  no  dream 
that  the  citizens  of  Albany  are  the  most 
sociable,  happy,  and  contented  people 
that  I  have  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting 
on  the  continent,  and  the  town  is  a 
paradise  for  any  one  wishing  to  make  a 
life-long  home. 

I  found  very  much  the  same  condi 
tions  at  Corvallis,  where  the  State  Ag 
ricultural  College  is  located,  and  at 
Lebanon,  with  its  large  paper  mills. 
Brownsville,  near  here,  has  woolen 
mills,  the  product  from  which  is  sold 
over  the  entire  west.  Harrisburg  is  at 
the  head  of  river  navigation.  From 
46 


The     Willamette     Valley 

here  I  pass  Junction  City,  going 
through  continuous  prune  farms,  ar 
riving  at  the  university  city,  Eugene, 
an  important  lumbering  and  mining 
center  in  addition  to  its  fruit  industry. 
South  of  here  is  Cottage  Grove,  the 
supply  point  and  from  where  is  extend 
ed  a  branch  line  to  the  Bohemian  gold 
mining  district. 

The  other  towns  of  southern  Oregon 
are  Roseburg,  justly  named  from  its 
abundance  of  flowers,  and  Grants  Pass, 
in  the  center  of  a  rich  mining  section, 
Medford  and  Jacksonville,  where  are 
many  very  extensive  and  rich  fruit 
farms ;  and  Ashland,  the  largest  city  in 
the  southern  part  of  the  state,  where 
the  State  Normal  school  is  situated. 

Klamath  Falls  and  Lakeview  are  the 

inland    towns    of     Southern    Oregon. 

Marshfield  and  Coquille  are  shipping 

towns  on  Coos  Bay,  as  is  also  the  town 

47 


Leaves       of      Knowledge 

of  Tillamook  on  Tillamook  Bay,  which 
has  large  cheese  factories. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  Willamette 
river  are  McMinnville,  Dallas,  Mon- 
mouth,  Independence,  Dayton  and 
Newberg,  while  on  the  east  side  are 
Woodburn,  Mt.  Angel  and  Silverton, 
constituting  the  great  hop  growing  lo 
calities,  with  Salem,  the  center  and  dis 
tributing  point.  Through  this  stretch 
of  country  are  seen  everywhere  the 
buildings  for  the  drying  of  hops,  and 
during  the  autumn  months  there  is  a 
scene  of  continual  activity  for  the  grow 
ers,  pickers,  pressers  and  buyers,  get 
ting  the  hops  ready  for  shipment  to 
eastern  markets,  principally  to  be  used 
by  the  large  breweries.  The  soil  and 
climate  are  especially  adapted  to  the 
production  of  hops,  and  from  the  pro 
ceeds  the  owners  receive  an  exceptional 
ly  good  profit,  about  two  million  dol- 
48 


The     Willamette     Valley 

Jars'  worth  being  the  annual  production. 

Forest  Grove,  a  college  town,  and 
Hillsboro  are  next  visited,  and  then  I 
am  back  to  Portland,  the  hub  of  the 
State  of  Oregon. 

From  here  I  again  start  over  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railway,  making  a 
number  of  stops.  Tacoma,  Washing 
ton,  the  Puget  Sound  terminal,  I  will 
fully  describe  later.  At  Ellensburg, 
one  of  the  State  Normal  schools  is  lo 
cated  and  this  city  is  also  a  division 
point  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway. 
From  here  I  viewed  Mt.  Adams  to  the 
south,  towering  12,250  feet  above  the 
sea  level. 

North  Yakima  is  located  in  a  very 
rich  section,  which  produces  all  kinds 
of  fruit,  as  well  as  an  abundance  of 
hops.  This  land  is  made  productive 
by  irrigation. 


49 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

All  traveling  people  will  recognize 
the  expression,  "Keep  your  eye  on  Pas- 
co,"  as  I  did.  I  then  passed  through  the 
wheat  country  to  Ritzville,  Sprague  and 
on  to  Cheney,  where  the  other  Normal 
school  of  the  State  is  located.  Then  to 
Spokane,  from  where  I  go  through  the 
pan-handle  of  Idaho,  on  to  Butte. 


50 


GREAT  FALLS,  MONTANA 
BOISE,  THE  CAPITAL  OF  IDAHO 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Great  Falls,  Montana  —  Boise,  the 
Capital  of  Idaho. 

After  a  brief  stop  at  my  home  town, 
I  went  over  the  Great  Northern  to  the 
second  city  of  Montana,  Great  Falls. 
Here,  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri 
river,  is  destined  to  be  one  of  the  larg 
est  manufacturing  cities  of  the  west, 
with  its  gigantic  water-power,  that  can 
be  so  easily  utilized  through  its  numer 
ous  natural  and  continual  chain  of  falls, 
the  largest  being  Great  Falls,  from 
which  the  town  takes  its  name.  Rain 
bow  is  where  the  silver-lead  smelters 
are  located.  Crooked,  and  Black  Eagle 
Falls,  have  the  immense  copper  smelt 
ers  and  refineries  of  the  Boston  and 
Montana  Mining  Company.  Near  here 
is  the  wonderful  Giant  Spring,  and  al 
though  it  is  unfathomable,  I  have  stood 
53 


Leaves       of      Knowledge 

at  its  water's  edge  and  gazed  at  the 
beautiful  lilies  growing  beneath  its  sur 
face.  The  city  is  in  an  agricultural  sec 
tion  surrounded  by  coal  and  quartz 
mines.  Here  are  the  shops  of  the  Great 
Northern  Railway,  and  large  elevators 
and  flour  mills.  From  here  a  branch  line 
extends  to  Lethbridge,  Alberta,  North 
west  Territory,  connecting  with  the 
Canadian  Pacific,  crossing  the  main  line 
of  the  Great  Northern  at  Shelby,  as 
well  as  its  connections  at  Havre.  There 
is  also  a  branch  line  running  to  Neihart 
and  Barker.  Neihart  was  once  a  very 
prosperous  silver  mining  town,  prior 
to  the  drop  in  silver  in  1893.  I  made 
my  first  trip  here  in  April,  of  1890,  be 
fore  the  advent  of  the  railroad.  I  find 
some  of  the  same  people  with  the  same 
high  expectations  there  now  that  I 
found  on  my  first  visit,  and  I  verily  be 
lieve  they  will  yet  realize  to  the  fullest 

54 


Great  Falls,  Montana,  and  Boise,  Idaho 

extent  their  every  desire.  Over  the 
range  of  the  Little  Belt  mountains  is 
the  noted  White  Sulphur  Springs.  At 
Yogo  are  found  the  beautiful  Montana 
sapphires.  From  Monarch  the  road 
branches  to  Barker,  a  lead  producing 
town.  On  my  return  I  stopped  at  Belt, 
a  flourishing  coal  mining  town,  where 
the  Anaconda  Copper  Company  get 
their  coal  and  coke  for  the  Amalgamat 
ed  smelters.  The  Belt  valley  has  ex 
ceptionally  good  ranches  with  extensive 
stock  ranges  surrounding. 

Sand  Coulee  and  Stocket  are  coal 
mining  towns  of  the  Great  Northern 
Railway. 

I  decided  on  my  return  to  Great 
Falls,  to  make  a  trip  to  Boulder  Hot 
Springs.  At  Boulder  is  the  State  Deaf 
and  Dumb  Institute,  and  is  the  center 
of  a  quartz  mining  section.  A  branch 
railroad  extends  to  the  Elkhorn  mines. 
55 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

A  short  distance  from  here  is  the  min 
ing  and  smelter  town  of  Basin,  having 
the  works  of  the  Montana  Ore  Purchas 
ing  Company.  The  Hot  Springs  are 
four  miles  from  the  Boulder  depot.  I 
found  a  comfortable  conveyance  and  on 
arriving  at  the  hotel  I  was  made  to 
feel  at  home.  After  thoroughly  enjoy 
ing  my  stop  here,  I  made  my  first  trip 
to  the  Gem  of  the  Mountains,  at  its 
capital  Boise,  arriving  on  the  I5th  day 
of  January,  1901. 

It  will  not  be  denied  that  the  peo 
ple  are  satisfied  with  their  individual 
prospects  and  with  the  prospects  of 
their  country.  The  utterances  of  its 
statesmen,  the  voice  of  its  legislature, 
the  language  of  its  press,  all  show  how 
firmly,  intelligently  and  successfully  the 
people  of  Idaho  are  working  unitedly 
together  for  the  benefit  of  the  entire 
state. 

56 


Great  Falls,  Montana,  and  Boise,  Idaho 

Boise  is  surrounded  by  a  number  of 
rich  gold  and  silver  mines,  and  a  great 
fruit  country,  made  productive  by  irri 
gation,  with  an  agreeable,  healthy  and 
bracing  climate.  Here  is  located  the 
United  States  government  post,  the 
State  penitentiary,  and  the  most  mag 
nificent  Natatorium  anywhere  in  the 
west.  While  I  was  here,  the  legisla 
ture  being  in  session,  the  representa 
tives  of  Idaho  extended  an  invitation  to 
the  law-makers  of  the  State  of  Utah  to 
visit  them ;  they  accepted,  and  came  up 
in  a  special  car,  remaining  over  one  day. 
Among  other  amusements  a  grand  re 
ception  was  given  at  the  Natatorium. 
The  water  having  been  drawn  from 
the  big  plunge,  a  false  floor,  supported 
by  studding  was  fitted  in  the  plunge, 
bringing  it  to  a  level,  and  it  was  then 
used  for  a  dancing  pavilion.  It  was  a 
beautiful  sight  to  go  through  the  re- 

57 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

ception  rooms,  step  out  on  the  balcony 
above  and  look  down  on  the  hundreds 
of  dancers ;  it  showed  deep  planning  to 
construct  a  building,  where  thousands 
could  gather  for  such  an  entertainment, 
as  well  as  for  bathing  purposes. 

I  now  leave  this  happy  people,  and 
go  to  Walla  Walla,  Washington. 


58 


WALLA  WALLA  AND  SOUTH 
EASTERN  WASHINGTON 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Walla  Walla  and  Southeastern 
Washington. 

The  people  of  Walla  Walla  and  sur 
rounding  country  revere  the  name  of 
that  brave  and  fearless  missionary, 
Whitman,  who  saved  the  whole  coun 
try,  then  known  as  Oregon,  to  the 
American  government.  Mr.  Whitman 
crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the 
then  uninhabited  western  plains,  on 
horseback,  his  sole  companion  being  an 
Indian  guide  who  could  not  stand  the 
chilly  blasts  of  winter,  and  with  froz 
en  feet,  had  to  be  left  behind  on  reach 
ing  the  first  settlement,  while  the  hero 
pressed  on  with  his  tired  horse  alone 
during  the  entire  winter,  and  eventual 
ly  reached  the  nation's  capital  at  Wash 
ington,  D.  C,  and  explained  to  the 
President  and  his  cabinet,  the  extensive 
61 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

resources  of  that  vast  western  terri 
tory.  After  accomplishing  his  mission, 
he  returned,  only  to  be  massacred,  he 
and  his  family,  by  the  Indians.  A 
large,  high  pillar  marks  the  place  of  his 
sad  ending.  Within  the  city  limits 
Whitman  College  stands  to  his  ever 
lasting  memory. 

One  of  the  oldest  government  forts 
in  the  west  is  still  occupied  here.  Here 
is  the  state  penitentiary,  where  the  oc 
cupants  are  kept  busy  making  wheat 
sacks  from  hemp  shipped  from  Manilla, 
Philippine  Islands. 

I  will  say,  it  is  no  wonder  this  place 
was  selected  and  trading  posts  establish 
ed  long  before  there  was  any  establish 
ed  ownership  to  this  part  of  the  coun 
try,  as  it  is  nature's  paradise.  I  have 
visited  this  city  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year  and  it  always  blends'  with  the  same 
beautiful  splendor.  Here  it  is  that  the 
62 


Walla  Walla— Southeastern  Washington 

champion  soils  of  the  world  are  to  be 
found,  while  with  a  soil  of  such  richness 
and  fertility,  and  a  climate  so  ideally 
adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  grain  and 
fruit,  it  is  only  natural  that  the  har 
vests  should  be  excellent. 

College  Place,  two  and  a  half  miles 
distant,  is  such  a  pretty  spot,  and  here 
is  found  the  course  of  instruction  for 
the  Advents.  Milton,  on  the  Oregon 
side,  is  also  a  wheat  and  fruit  country. 
Waitsburg  and  Dayton,  Washington, 
are  two  prosperous  towns.  In  addition 
to  their  large  wheat  crops,  abundance 
of  barley  and  rye  is  grown,  and  no 
where  is  the  soil  found  so  uniformly 
fertile  as  through  this  vast  stretch  of 
country;  and  nowhere  on  earth,  it  is 
certain,  can  wheat  be  raised  more  prof 
itably.  Nature  has  thus  evidently  mark 
ed  out  the  same  conditions  at  the  town 
of  Pomeroy.  At  Starbuck,  a  division 
63 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

point  for  the  Oregon  Railway  &  Navi 
gation  Company,  I  had  dinner,  and  then 
moved  on  to  Colfax,  the  capital  of 
Whitman  County,  situated  in  the  rich 
wheat  section  of  the  Palouse  country. 
There  are  lumber  industries  carried  on 
here,  and  extensive  flour  mills,  and 
while  the  climate  is  in  every  respect  all 
that  could  be  desired  for  the  growth  of 
both  winter  and  summer  wheat,  the  fer 
tility  of  the  soil  is  such  as  to  make  it 
incomparable.  The  entire  country  and 
its  citizens  are  continually  busy  sowing 
and  harvesting  their  wheat,  storing  it 
in  large  warehouses,  whence  it  is  ship 
ped  to  the  Pacific  Coast  markets  and 
from  there  to  Asiatic  and  European 
countries.  I  leave  Colfax  for  Spokane, 
and  from  there  go  over  the  Great  Nor 
thern  to  Kalispell,  Montana,  stopping 
on  the  way  a  few  days  at  Troy,  a  di 
vision  point  of  the  railroad.  There  are 
64 


Walla  Walla— Southeastern  Washington 

several  quartz  mines  in  this  vicinity. 
A  delightful  vacation  could  be  spent 
here  hunting  and  fishing  and  visiting 
the  beautiful  Kootenai  Falls. 


65 


WESTERN  MONTANA 


CHAPTER  VIII. 
Western    Montana. 

Kalispell,  the  largest  City  in  the  Flat- 
head  country,  in  the  northwestern  part 
of  Montana,  lies  west  and  is  sheltered 
by  the  main  range  of  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains.  This,  as  well  as  a  portion  of  the 
state  south  of  here,  at  one  time  com 
prised  the  Oregon  Possessions,  whereas 
the  rest  of  Montana  was  acquired  by  the 
Louisiana  Purchase,  which  we  will  all 
celebrate  during  the  St.  Louis  Exposi 
tion. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Kalispell  are  num 
erous  sawmills,  the  largest  being  at 
Somers,  at  the  head  of  Flathead  Lake, 
also  a  very  extensive  pickling  plant  for 
the  preservation  of  ties.  I  enjoyed 
many  delightful  drives  through  the  im 
mense  wheat  farms  and  inhaled  the  per- 
69 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

fume  from  the  many  fruit  trees  then  in 
bloom.  I  will  always  have  a  warm  feel 
ing  and  pleasant  memories  for  the  hap 
py  time  and  many  friends  I  have  made 
in  Kalispell.  Fifteen  miles  northeast 
is  Columbia  Falls,  where  is  located  the 
Soldiers'  Home  of  the  state,  which 
cares  for  the  infirm  who  once  defended 
our  country. 

One  bright  sunny  morning  in  Aug 
ust,  1901,  I  drove  three  miles  before  6 
A.  M.  to  Demarsville,  the  head  of  navi 
gation  of  the  Flathead  river,  took  the 
steamer  Klondike  and  sailed  down 
twenty-eight  miles  to  the  lake,  passing 
Big  Fork  on  the  way,  where  a  number 
of  eastern  excursionists  left  our  boat  to 
go  camping.  Then  sailed  thirty-five 
miles  to  the  foot  of  the  Lake.  Arriv 
ing  there,  we  were  met  by  a  four-horse 
stage  coach  to  drive  thirty-five  miles 
over  the  Flathead  Reservation,  so  called 

70 


Western         Montana 

on  account  of  the  tribe  of  Flathead  In 
dians  that  inhabit  it.  This  was  an  in 
teresting  ride  to  me.  I  viewed  the  con 
tinuous  bands  of  horses  and  cattle,  be 
sides  a  large  herd  of  buffalo,  and  In 
dians  on  horse  back,  riding  around  us 
in  all  directions.  At  times  we  could 
not  see  any  of  them ;  then  in  a  few  mo 
ments  they  would  come  after  us  at  a 
break-neck  pace,  their  rifles  hanging 
at  their  ponies'  saddles,  and  with  their 
war  whoops  encircling  us,  to  their 
amusement,  but  it  did  not  bother  us  old- 
timers'.  This  was  a  jolly  ride,  though 
a  hot  and  dusty  one.  There  were 
eleven  passengers  and  all  hungry  when 
we  reached  Selish.  I  never  shall  forget 
how  good  the  dinner  did  taste  as  it  had 
been  only  the  fourth  meal  I  had  that 
day.  Stopping  over  night,  I  took  the 
train  the  next  morning  for  The  Garden 
City  of  the  State,  Missoula. 
71 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

The  city  is  beautifully  situated  on 
both  sides  of  the  Missoula  river.  Thits 
has  been  truly  called  the  Garden  of  the 
State,  with  fruits  and  flowers',  fish  and 
fowls,  streams  and  rivers,  tracts  of  tim 
ber  and  mountains.  What  more  does  a 
man  want?  And  this  section  offers  as 
fine  opportunities,  for  mixed  farming, 
as  any  place  in  my  knowledge. 

The  long  sunny  days,  together  with 
the  rich  soil,  produce  very  fine  wheat, 
oats  and  other  cereal  products.  Here 
are  large  flour  mills,  and  the  most  ex 
tensive  lumbering  industries  in  the 
state.  Also  the  best  educational  fa 
cilities,  having  the  Montana  State  Uni 
versity,  an  up-to-date  business  college, 
and  superior  public  schools. 

It  is  an  important  railroad  division 

headquarters,  and  the  Sanitarium  of  the 

Northern  Pacific  Railway  Company  is 

located  here.     It  is  the  junction  of  the 

72 


Western         Montana 

branch  that  extends  up  the  rich  Bitter 
Root  Valley,  passing  Fort  Missoula 
and  continuing  up  the  valley  for  a  dis 
tance  of  over  fifty  miles,  passing  the 
towns  of  Victor  and  Stevensville, 
through  rich  fruit  and  grain  farms, 
reaching  Hamilton,  where  also  are  large 
sawmills  in  operation. 

A  short  distance  west,  at  DeSmet,  a 
branch  line  extends  to  the  Coeur 
d'Alene  Mining  District.  The  entire 
section  is  an  agricultural  and  stock 
country,  and  at  Plains,  on  the  main  line 
of  the  railway,  are  immense  bands  of 
thoroughbred  cattle,  horses  and  Angora 
goats. 

At  Bonner,  east  of  Missoula,  are  the 
large  sawmills  of  the  Blackfoot  Milling 
Company.  At  Drummond  a  line  ex 
tends  to  Philipsburg  and  the  celebrated 
Bi-Metalic  and  Granite  Mountain 
Mines. 

73 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

Deer  Lodge  has  the  State  Peniten 
tiary  and  the  College  of  Montana,  and 
at  Warm  Springs  is  the  Asylum. 

I  next  reach  the  metropolis  of  Mon 
tana,  and  my  home,  Butte. 


74 


BUTTE  AND  ANACONDA 


CHAPTER  IX. 
Butte  and  Anaconda. 

Many  people  were  first  attracted  to 
Butte  in  the  sixties,  on  account  of  its 
placer  mines;  then  in  1875  it  became 
noted  for  its  quartz  mines  of  gold  and 
silver,  and  with  increasing  depth  the 
mines  developed  valuable  copper  depos 
its.  They  are  now  producing  13,000 
tons  per  day,  and  furnish  employment 
to  about  15,000  men,  with  a  payroll  of 
over  one  million  and  a  half  dollars  a 
month. 

People  are  surprised  on  visiting 
Butte,  expecting  to  find  a  mining  camp ; 
instead  they  find  a  metropolitan  city, 
with  well-paved  streets  and  massive 
steel  business  structures.  You  will  find 
as  well  equipped  stores  here  as  in  New 
York  City.  I  will  not  attempt  to  lead 

you  through  the  beautiful  fields  of  wav- 
77 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

ing  wheat,  or  let  you  moisten  your  lips 
with  the  delicious  growing  fruit,  or 
view  the  shade  trees.  But  take  the  elec 
tric  car  and  go  four  miles  to  Columbia 
Gardens,  where  the  atmosphere  is  high 
ly  purified,  joyous  and  clear.  Surround 
ed  by  this  unseen  influence  the  cares  of 
life  press  less  heavily  upon  the  brain, 
and  the  severest  toil  or  exposure  finds 
increased  capacity  to  bear  it.  This  is 
not  only  a  most  delightful  park,  with  a 
fine  museum,  but  includes  all  kinds  of 
sports,  band  concerts,  baseball  and  num 
erous  other  amusements.  There  is  also 
a  large  dancing  hall,  with  shade  trees 
and  flowers  galore.  Between  here  and 
the  city  are  the  horse  racing  and  cours 
ing  tracks. 

The  prosperity  of  Butte  is  under  the 
city  proper  and  its  suburbs,  Center- 
ville,  Walkerville,  Meaderville  and 
South  Butte.  The  greater  quantites  of 

78 


Butte     and     Anaconda 

ore  are  taken  out  below  the  level  of  a 
thousand  feet,  the  supply  seeming  in 
exhaustible.  The  production  of  the 
mines,  with  their  smelters  and  reduc 
tion  works,  support  not  only  this  vast 
city,  but  in  shipping  their  ores  for  treat 
ment  to  the  extensive  plants,  send  out 
prosperity  to  Great  Falls,  Basin  and 
Anaconda.  In  addition  to  the  amount 
of  coal  and  wood  used  at  the  mines  and 
smelters,  an  immense  quantity  of  manu 
factured  lumber  is  used  for  timbering  to 
support  the  works  of  the  mines,  extend 
ing  its  prosperous  influence  through  the 
whole  state. 

The  students  of  the  State  School  of 
Mines  here  acquire  a  practical  as  well 
as  a  theoretical  education. 

Anaconda,    twenty-six    miles     from 

Butte,  has  the  great  Washoe  Smelters, 

the  largest  copper  smelting  and  refining 

works  in  the  world,  employing  eighteen 

79 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

hundred  men  and  treating  five  thousand 
tons  of  ore  daily.  The  ore  is  sent  to 
the  concentrator,  where  it  is  reduced  to 
concentrates,  then  separated  from  the 
waste.  From  there  it  is  taken  to  the 
calcine  plant,  where  the  sulphur  is  re 
moved.  The  mass  is  smelted  in  the 
reverberatory  and  the  silica  and  iron 
are  taken  out  as  slag,  the  remaining 
matte  is  run  through  the  concentrator 
and  casting  house,  where  it  is  cast  into 
bullion  bars  of  gold,  silver  and  copper, 
then  sent  to  the  refinery. 

The  people  of  the  city  of  Anaconda 
have  reason  to  be  proud  of  its  extensive 
library,  fine  opera  house  and  its  mag 
nificent  hotel,  the  "Montana."  I  again 
made  a  trip  westward  over  the  Oregon 
Short  Line  from  Butte,  changing  cars 
at  Pocatello.  I  remained  over  one  day 
at  Nampa,  Idaho,  and  then  went  on  to 
Portland  and  down  the  Columbia  river 
to  Astoria,  Oregon. 

80 


THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER 
AND  PULLMAN 


CHAPTER  X. 
The  Columbia  River  and   Pullman. 

I  spent  three  weeks,  including  a  very 
pleasant  Christmas,  at  Astoria,  where 
the  roses  bloom  out  of  doors  the  year 
around,  a  friend  bringing  me  a  beauti 
ful  bouquet  she  had  picked  in  her  yard 
the  evening  before  I  left.  I  spent  my 
New  Year  festivities  at  Albany,  and  a 
new  one  on  me  was  to  see  bands  of 
sheep  grazing  in  the  large  fields  of  win 
ter  wheat.  I  thought  the  good-natured 
farmers  had  forgotten  to  put  up  their 
fences,  but  was  informed  by  a  friend 
that  this  was  customary,  and  if  not 
done,  the  growth  would  be  so  great  that 
there  would  be  an  abundance  of  straw, 
with  less  return  of  wheat.  After  a 
short  sojourn  here  I  went  back  to  Port 
land,  starting  east  over  the  Oregon 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

Railway  &  Navigation  to  Hood  river. 
Here  one  can  agreeably  stop  for  a  few 
days,  for  there  is  a  romanticism  in  its 
very  air.  Lifting  my  eyes  aloft,  I  view 
ed  the  encircling  hills  that  nature  has 
placed  there  to  make  this  valley  a  para 
dise.  Fruit  is  grown  here  on  an  exten 
sive  scale.  Strawberries,  cherries,  ap 
ples  and  prunes  are  nature's  favorites, 
and  she  bestows  a  lavish  care  on  them. 
I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  a  friend 
of  my  girlhood  days,  whose  home  is 
here,  and  he  made  it  very  pleasant  for 
me,  taking  me  for  a  drive  around  the 
block,  a  distance  of  eight  miles,  through 
the  fruit  section.  The  strawberries  are 
renowned  on  account  of  their  being  so 
delicious  and  hardy.  The  same  may  be 
said  of  their  other  fruits,  which  con 
sequently  stand  shipment  to  foreign 
ports,  as  well  as  all  over  the  continent. 
This  makes  the  town  a  busy  market 
84 


The    Columbia    River    and     Pullman 

during  the  summer  season,  crowded 
with  fruit  buyers,  owners  and  pickers. 

From  here  I  pass  on  to  The  Dalles, 
where  boats  ply  on  the  Columbia  river 
to  Portland  and  Astoria.  This  is  an 
important  shipping  point  for  wool, 
sheep,  horses  and  cattle  from  Central 
Oregon  and  Washington. 

I  pass  Celilo  Falls  to  Biggs,  which  is 
the  junction  for  the  railroad  that  ex 
tends  to  Central  Oregon  at  Shaniko, 
with  the  Towns  of  Wasco  and  Moro  on 
the  line,  and  the  town  of  Prineville 
further  inland,  in  the  stock  country. 

North  of  the  Columbia  river,  on  the 
Washington  side,  is  the  town  of  Gold- 
endale,  in  the  center  of  an  agricultural 
and  stock  country. 

I  made  a  short  stop    at    Arlington. 

Near  here  is  Heppner  Junction,  where 

a  branch  extends  to  lone  and  Heppner, 

and  with  Condon  and  Fossil  have  ex- 

85 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

tensive  stock  ranges,  making  shipments 
at  Arlington  from  both  sides  of  the  Co 
lumbia  river.  I  take  the  train,  follow 
ing  the  river,  pass  Umatilla  to  Wallula, 
where  I  change  cars  and  go  to  Walla 
Walla,  Washington. 

After  a  pleasant  sojourn  here,  renew 
ing  old  acquaintances,  I  go  on  to  that 
stirring  and  enterprising  town  of  Pull 
man,  where  the  State  Agricultural  Col 
lege  is  located.  I  learned  there  were 
students  in  attendance,  not  only  from 
their  own  state,  but  from  other  west 
ern  states.  Pullman  has  the  advantage 
of  not  only  the  Oregon  Railway  &  Nav 
igation  Company,  but  the  Northern  Pa 
cific  Railroad  as  well,  which  makes  it 
a  leading  commercial  wheat  shipping 
section  for  the  Palouse  country.  The 
atmosphere  is  healthful,  bright  and 
clear,  and  the  soil  is  of  the  richest  black 
loam. 

86 


The    Columbia    River    and     Pullman 

Writing  of  Pullman  brings  to  my 
mind  the  drive  I  had  from  the  hotel 
to  the  depot,  on  my  first  trip  here.  Mac 
came  in  my  room  and  told  me  he  had 
decided  to  take  the  morning  train,  due 
in  ten  minutes,  for  Spokane,  and  pity 
me ;  I  had  two  trunks,  besides  two  grips 
to  pack.  I  will  say  right  here,  our 
clothes  did  not  get  folded  between  tis 
sue  paper  that  time.  The  help  came 
right  up  to  my  room,  and  while  they 
were  taking  down  the  first  trunk  we 
packed  the  second.  I  being  the  only 
lady,  with  a  dozen  traveling  men,  we 
started  for  the  depot.  Nearing  there  a 
freight  train  came  on  the  track  and  for 
a  moment  it  looked  as  if  we  would  be 
delayed,  and  when  it  had  passed  on,  the 
buses  from  the  two  hotels  began  to  race 
their  horses,  running  at  full  speed,  with 
wheels  almost  locked,  to  see  who  would 
get  in  place  first.  Mac  had  rushed  on 

87 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

ahead  to  check  trunks,  and,  seeing  the 
race  was  standing  with  open  arms  to 
pick  me  up  out  of  the  wreck,  but  we  did 
not  have  any,  and  made  our  train  in 
time. 


88 


THE   PALOUSE  COUNTRY  AND 
NORTHERN  MONTANA 


CHAPTER  XI. 

The  Palouse  Country  and  Northern 
Montana. 

From  Pullman  I  made  a  pleasant  trip 
to  Uniontown,  and  drove,  one  fine  May 
day,  to  Genesee,  Idaho.  It  was  a  charm 
ing  sight  to  pass  through  the  immense 
wheat  fields;  the  grain  yields  of  this 
country  are  marvelous. 

After  I  had  made  some  pleasant  ac 
quaintances,  I  returned  to  Uniontown, 
Washington.  From  there  I  was  driven 
to  Lewiston,  Idaho,  a  distance  of  nine 
miles.  The  last  four  miles  of  the  way 
has  a  drop  of  over  two  thousand  feet, 
and  during  the  four  miles  Lewiston 
seemed  right  at  our  feet,  on  ac 
count  of  the  road  winding  down  the 
hill,  snake  fashion.  At  times  the  out 
look  seemed  so  dangerous  that  it  caused 
91 


Leaves       of      Knowledge 

one  to  hold  one's  breath,  but  I  held  on 
to  the  carriage  seat  instead.  When  I 
left  Uniontown  I  had  on  quite  a  heavy 
wrap,  but  before  reaching  Lewiston  the 
heat  seemed  almost  unbearable. 

This  town  is  where  the  Clearwater 
empties  into  Snake  river.  Boats  run 
on  the  Snake  river  to  Riparia,  connect 
ing  with  the  Oregon  Railway  &  Navi 
gation  line,  and  a  branch  of  the  North 
ern  Pacific  connects  with  the  main  line 
to  Spokane.  Winter  here  is  a  most 
charming  season,  and  the  long  sunny 
days  of  summer  are  succeeded  by  cool 
nights.  Aided  by  irrigation,  immense 
quantities  of  fruit  are  raised  yearly. 
Across  the  Snake  river,  which  is 
spanned  by  a  long  steel  bridge,  is  the 
town  of  Clarkston,  Washington,  with 
Asotin  a  short  distance  up  the  river. 
These  are  fruit  sections.  Southeast  on 


92 


Palouse  Country  and  Northern  Montana 

the  elevated  bench  lands,  is  the  town 
of  Grangeville,  in  the  wheat  section. 

Lewiston  is  the  out-fitting  and  busi 
ness  city  for  the  mines  of  Central  Idaho, 
and  the  location  of  the  State  Normal 
School. 

I  passed  up  the  valley  through  Ken- 
drick  and  Troy,  ascending  again  to  the 
wheat  country  at  Moscow,  where  the 
State  University  of  Idaho  is  located. 
Here  crops  are  grown  without  the  aid 
of  irrigation  or  artificial  fertilizers.  I 
take  lunch  at  Pullman,  and  go  on  to  the 
town  of  Palouse,  Washington,  which, 
in  addition  to  its  farming  interests,  has 
important  lumbering  industries,  mills 
being  here  that  manufacture  the  lumber 
brought  down  the  river  from  the  sur 
rounding  country  and  Central  Idaho. 
I  stopped  at  Garfield,  and  thence  on  to 
Oakesdale,  Rosalia  and  Spangle,  pass 
ing  through  the  immense  fields  of 
93 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

waving  wheat.  Reaching  Spokane,  I 
take  a  trip  on  the  Great  Northern  across 
the  State  of  Idaho,  with  a  stop  at  Bon- 
ner's  Ferry,  made  important  on  account 
of  railroad  connections  with  the  Crow's 
Nest  Pass  Railroad  and  Kuskonook, 
British  Columbia. 

I  made  a  few  days'  stop  at  Libby, 
Montana,  a  stirring  little  town,  with 
rich  mines  surrounding.  From  Jen 
nings  another  branch  line  of  the  Great 
Northern  will  run  to  Fernie,  B.  C,  also 
connecting  with  the  Crow's  Nest  Pass. 

During  my  stay  in  Kalispell  I  noticed 
great  improvements  since  my  last  visit. 
Surveys  were  being  made  to  the  new 
town  of  Whitefish  by  the  Great  North 
ern  Railroad. 

After   a   run   of  two   hundred   and 
sixty-five  miles  east  of  Kalispell,  I  ar 
rived  at  Havre,  where  are  the  shops  of 
the  Great  Northern  on  its  main  line. 
94 


Palouse  Country  and  Northern  Montana 

From  here  the  road  branches  off  to 
Great  Falls,  Helena  and  Butte.  This 
branch  is  commonly  spoken  of  as  the 
Montana  Central  Railway.  Havre  is 
also  division  headquarters.  This  city 
and  Chinook  are  important  cattle  ship 
ping  points,  and  the  country  east  to 
Glasgow,  the  next  railroad  division, 
has  very  important  cattle  industries. 

An  interesting  incident  to  me  oc- 
cured  while  at  Havre.  The  Indians 
were  coming  together  from  the  different 
reservations  to  celebrate  and  have  their 
war  dance.  It  was  amusing  to  see  their 
costumes  and  the  mode  of  travelling  of 
the  hundreds  that  gathered  for  this 
occasion.  Fort  Assiniboine,  a  United 
States  Government  Post,  is  near  here. 

Fort  Benton  is  surrounded  by  an  ex 
tensive  stock  country,  and  is  the  head 
of  navigation  of  the  Missouri  river,  be 
ing  the  oldest  town  in  the  state. 
95 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

After  a  short  stop  at  the  City  of  Great 
Falls,  I  wend  my  way  to  the  capital  of 
the  state,  Helena. 


96 


HELENA  AND   EASTERN 
MONTANA 


CHAPTER  XII. 
Helena  and  Eastern  Montana. 

The  motive  of  my  coming  to  Helena, 
with  the  rest  of  the  patriotic  citizens  of 
the  State,  was  to  dedicate  our  magnifi 
cent  capitol  buildings,  which  had  just 
been  completed,  and  to  commemorate 
the  one  hundred  and  twenty-sixth  anni 
versary  of  our  independence. 

Helena  is  well  located  for  the  capital 
and  is  the  center  of  population  in  the 
state;  has  substantial  business  blocks 
and  beautiful  residences,  with  every  ap 
pearance  of  a  permanent  city. 

The  Broadwater  Natatorium,  with  its 
immense  plunge,  is  a  great  source  of  at 
traction,  and  close  by  is  Fort  Harrison. 
Within  the  city  is  the  United  States 
Assay  Office,  and  also  a  large  cracker 
factory. 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

Helena  stands  today  in  what  used  to 
be  known  as  Last  Chance  Gulch,  where 
originally  were  rich  placer  mines,  the 
producers  of  forty  million  dollars  in 
gold,  and  at  the  present  time  a  number 
of  quartz  mines  are  in  operation.  Sur 
rounding  the  city  and  adjoining  are 
Marysville,  Remini,  Clancy,  Corbin  and 
Wickes,  with  branch  railway  lines  con 
necting  with  Helena.  A  large  smelter 
is  in  constant  operation  at  East  Helena, 
the  power  being  furnished  by  the  elec 
tric  plant  on  the  Missouri  river  at  Can 
yon  Ferry. 

After  my  above  mentioned  celebra 
tion,  I  went  to  Hunter's  Hot  Springs, 
the  health  resort  of  the  Northern  Pa 
cific  Railway  Company,  two  miles  from 
its  main  line  at  Springdale,  where 
coaches  meet  all  persons  desiring  to  go 
to  the  Hot  Springs.  I  had  an  enjoyable 
sojourn  here  and  moved  on  to  that  far 
100 


Helena    and    Eastern    Montana 

eastern  Montana  town,  Glendive,  a  dis 
tance  of  three  hundred  and  twenty-two 
miles.  This  town  is  a  division  point,  on 
the  main  line  of  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railroad,  and  has  more  stir  and  life  than 
the  majority  of  towns.  The  opera  was 
running  in  full  blast,  the  Jesse  James 
tent  shows  and  the  Wild  West  Circus. 
It  was  amusing,  as  I  sat  on  the  balcony 
of  the  hotel,  to  see  the  circus  people 
forming  on  horseback  in  their  different 
costumes  and  trying  to  appear  very  wild 
for  the  parade.  They  were  followed  by 
a  four-horse  team  attached  to  an 
enormous  enclosed  wagon,  supposed  to 
be  holding  the  wild  animals.  The  laugh 
able  part  came  in  as  they  were  turn 
ing  in  front  of  the  hotel,  their  horses 
were  unable  to  pull  the  wagon,  and  the 
Glendive  citizens  had  to  lend  a  helping 
hand,  for  we  wranted  them  to  move  on, 
fearing  the  animals  might  get  out,  but 
101 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

on  the  circus  grounds  they  only  had  a 
few  buffaloes. 

The  town  presented  a  very  busy  ap 
pearance,  this  being  the  wool  season. 
Herders  were  bringing  in  bands  of 
sheep,  with  thousands  to  a  band,  for  the 
shearing.  I  was  invited  for  a  drive  to 
see  the  shearing,  which  was  all  being 
done  by  machinery.  This  was  a  pitiful 
sight  to  me — to  see  the  way  the  clipping 
machines  cut  up  the  sheep,  and  to  hear 
thousands  of  little  lambs  crying  on  ac 
count  of  the  separation  from  their 
mothers.  This  was  one  trip  I  did  not 
enjoy. 

It  was  a  perfect  sight  to  see  the  im 
mense  quantity  of  wool  in  sacks  ready 
for  shipment.  The  wool  buyers  were 
here  from  as  far  east  as  Boston,  and  all 
the  sheep  owners  in  the  country,  and  it 
certainly  did  make  things  lively. 

I  finally  bade  adieu  to  this  stirring 

102 


Helena   and   Eastern  Montana 

community  and  turned  my  face  west 
ward  to  Miles  City,  the  oldest  town  in 
eastern  Montana,  where  General  Miles 
was  at  one  time  stationed,  and  from 
whom  the  town  received  its  name.  It 
has  been  for  years  the  greatest  cattle 
shipping  town  in  the  state,  and  also  an 
important  depot  for  the  shipment  of 
sheep  and  wool.  Here  is  located  the 
State  Reform  School,  and  two  miles 
west  is  the  Government  Post,  Fort 
Keogh. 

I  never  shall  forget  Forsyth,  on  ac 
count  of  the  intense  heat  while  there. 
I  just  fanned  myself  all  the  time  and 
while  traveling  through  this  stretch  of 
country  I  took  night  trains,  it  being 
cooler.  Forsyth  is  a  railroad  division 
point  and  a  thriving  town,  having  ex 
tensive  stock  interests. 

Billings  is  the  western  terminus  of 
the  Burlington  Railway  system,  and  is 
103 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

the  greatest  wool  shipping  depot  in  the 
country.  The  city  has  reason  to  be 
proud  of  its  fine  library,  a  magnificent 
stone  building,  well  supplied  with  many 
volumes. 

Here  is  located  division  headquarters 
of  the  Northern  Pacific  and  Burlington, 
the  latter  running  its  trains  over  the 
track  of  the  Northern  Pacific  west  to 
Seattle,  Washington. 

I  again  find  here  a  country  made  pro 
ductive  by  irrigation,  and  crops  are 
now  grown  successfully  where  a  few 
years  ago  was  a  continuous  stock  range. 

Laurel  is  the  junction  of  the  Rocky 
Fork  branch  to  Red  Lodge,  Gebo  and 
Bridger,  important  coal  mining  towns, 
with  farming  and  fruit  raising  country 
surrounding  them. 

Columbus    has    excellent    stone    for 
building  purposes,  which  was  used  in 
the  erection  of  the  state  capitol. 
104 


Helena    and    Eastern    Montana 

At  Big  Timber  has  been  erected  the 
first  woolen  mill  in  the  state. 

Bozeman  seemed  such  a  pretty  home 
town,  during  my  summer  stop,  with  the 
beautiful  lawns  and  abundance  of  flow 
ers,  the  vines  twining  around  the 
houses. 

The  morning  I  left  Bozeman,  Mac, 
as  usual,  gave  me  a  few  minutes  to  get 
ready.  I  was  quietly  reading  the  morn 
ing  paper,  when  he  came  in  and  said 
that  we  would  take  the  Burlington  for 
Butte.  I  soon  got  ready,  however,  as 
I  am  accustomed  to  short  notices.  The 
buses  and  street  car  had  all  gone  to 
the  train,  so  he  telephoned  for  a  coach. 
This,  of  course,  all  took  time,  which 
made  us  a  little  late;  nevertheless,  we 
started  out  at  a  fast  pace.  On  getting 
in  sight  of  the  depot  the  train  seemed 
ready  to  leave,  but  the  driver  said :  "I 
will  make  it,  if  you  want  me  to."  Mac 
105 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

told  him  that  was  what  he  wanted. 
Then  he  put  the  horses  on  a  run,  whip 
ping  them  all  the  time,  and  turning  cor 
ners  our  carriage  would  run  on  two 
wheels.  The  conductor  seeing  us  com 
ing  at  such  a  pace  held  the  train  a  mo 
ment,  no  doubt  thinking  this  was  an 
elopement  case,  and,  thanks  to  his  kind 
ness,  and  the  driver's  whip,  we  reached 
the  train  in  safety,  and  made  Butte  that 
evening,  just  the  same. 


106 


SPOKANE  AND  THE  INLAND 
EMPIRE 


CHAPTER  XIII. 
Spokane  and  the  Inland  Empire. 

After  a  pleasant  stay  of  six  weeks  in 
Butte,  I  went  over  the  Great  Northern 
Railroad  to  Spokane,  making  short 
stops  at  Great  Falls,  Havre  and  Kalis- 
pell.  Arriving  at  Spokane  I  took  a 
coach  and  drove  across  the  river  to 
the  Oregon  Railroad  and  Navigation 
depot  and  took  the  train  for 
Tekoa,  Washington,  a  distance  of  fifty 
miles,  passing  Rockford,  Fairfield  and 
Latah,  extensive  wheat  sections.  Tekoa 
is  the  town  where  the  trains  branch  off 
to  go  to  the  famous  Coeur  d'Alene 
mines,  consequently  this  is  an  important 
division  point.  Millions  of  bushels  of 
wheat  are  shipped  from  here  yearly. 
This  was  a  picturesque  looking  little 
town  to  me,  with  the  hills  dotted  by  lit- 
109 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

tie  white  buildings,  trees  and  flowers. 
On  account  of  the  hotel  just  burning 
down,  accommodations  were  limited, 
but  I  got  a  room  with  a  very  pleasant 
family,  taking  my  meals  at  a  restaur 
ant. 

My  next  stop  was  at  Wallace,  Idaho, 
where  I  spent  a  very  entertaining  week. 
This  is  the  principal  city  of  the  Coeur 
d'Alenes,  surrounded  by  mining  towns. 
The  ones  of  most  note  are  Wardner, 
Mullan,  Burke  and  Gem,  all  large  pro 
ducers  of  lead  and  silver  ore,  and  Kel- 
logg*  an  important  milling  town.  On 
my  way  back  from  Wallace  I  stopped  at 
Harrison,  on  Coeur  d'Alene  Lake, 
where  are  large  sawmills.  To  change 
my  route,  I  took  a  sail  on  the  Steamer 
Spokane  over  the  lake  to  Coeur  d'Alene 
City,  which  I  found  extensively  en 
gaged  in  lumbering  enterprises. 


110 


Spokane   and   the    Inland    Empire 

I  made  my  way  back  to  Spokane  in 
time  to  attend  their  annual  fall  fair, 
which  showed  patronage  from  the  four 
northwestern  states.  The  fruit  exhibit 
from  the  irrigated  fruit  farms,  sur 
rounding  Wenatchee,  carried  off  the 
first  prize,  closely  followed  by  Water- 
ville  and  Douglas  County  and  the  Pa- 
louse  country.  There  were  also  wheat 
and  cereals  from  these,  Harrington  and 
the  Big  Bend  country,  the  exhibits  com 
ing  on  the  Washington  Central  Railway 
from  Davenport,  Coulee  City  and  Wil 
bur.  On  the  Spokane  Falls  &  Northern 
they  came  from  Colville,  Marcus, 
Northport  and  Nelson,  British  Colum 
bia.  Also  from  Rathdrum  and  the  lum 
bering  town  of  Sandpoint,  on  Pend 
d'Oreille  Lake.  There  were  mineral 
exhibits  from  the  Coeur  d'Alene  mines 
of  Idaho,  from  Republic,  and  other  sec 
tions  of  Washington,  and  from  Ross- 
ill 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

land,  Sandon,  Kalso,  Trail  and  Slocan, 
British  Columbia;  Baker  City  and 
Sumpter,  Oregon;  cattle  from  Le 
Grande  and  Portland,  and  as  far  south 
as  the  State  of  Nevada;  horses,  sheep 
and  hogs  from  the  entire  section,  in 
cluding  trotting  and  racing  horses  from 
Butte.  And  even  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railway  Company  had  their  exhibit, 
consisting  of  a  miniature  railroad,  and 
I  had  the  pleasure  of  taking  a  trip  to 
St.  Paul  and  return  in  ten  minutes. 

The  horse  racing  and  other  sports 
were  unexcelled,  and  the  balloon  ascen 
sion  was  perfectly  grand,  the  finest  I 
ever  witnessed;  to  see  coming  down, 
seemingly  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
two  little  parachutes,  one  basket  having 
a  dog  in  it,  the  other  a  cat,  followed  by 
the  balloonist  and  his  parachute,  all 
coming  safely  back  to  earth. 

I  met  interesting  people  from  every- 

112 


Spokane   and   the    Inland    Empire 

where  in  the  west,  and  remarked  to  my 
friends  that  nature  had  destined  a  city 
here,  the  center  of  the  richest  section 
found  anywhere  on  the  American  con 
tinent,  with  its  mines,  lumber,  farms 
and  natural  available  water  power ;  with 
its  two  transcontinental  railroads  and 
branches,  with  division  headquarters 
for  all  lines  passing  through  the  city, 
of  all  the  western  railway  systems, 
bringing  business  from  the  Dominion 
of  Canada,  as  well  as  the  United  States, 
an  Inland  Empire  within  itself.  All 
these,  combined  with  the  energy  and 
enterprise  of  its  citizens,  will  make 
Spokane  the  largest  inland  city  on  the 
western  hemisphere. 

Probably  what  made  me  so  interested 
during  the  fair  was  that  the  final  games 
of  the  Pacific  Northwest  National  Base 
ball  League  were  being  played  here  at 
this  time,  and  I  was  delighted,  of 
113 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

course,  to  see  Butte,  my  home  town 
team,  win  the  pennant. 

The  fair  being  over,  I  wended  my 
way  to  Seattle,  Washington,  over  the 
Great  Northern  Railroad,  which  served 
me  with  every  comfort  on  the  way. 


114 


VICTORIA  AND  VANCOUVER, 
BRITISH  COLUMBIA 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
Victoria  and  Vancouver,  B.  C. 

After  remaining  in  Seattle  a  few 
days,  I  decided  to  view  the  country 
across  the  line,  in  British  Columbia. 
One  bright,  sunny  morning  I  took  the 
steamer  Majestic  for  Victoria,  the  cap 
ital,  situated  on  Vancouver  Island. 

There  was  an  almost  endless  varia 
tion  in  this  sail  on  the  inland  waters  of 
Puget  Sound,  in  sight  of  the  mainland 
and  the  many  islands,  with  the  Olym 
pic  and  Cascade  mountains  in  the  dis 
tance. 

I  made  a  short  stop  at  Port  Town- 
send,  the  port  of  entry.  Nearer  the 
Pacific  ocean  is  Port  Angeles,  on  the 
strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca. 

An  amusing  incident  to  me  was  the 
porpoises  continually  following  the 
117 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

steamer  while  crossing  the  strait.  On 
landing  at  Victoria,  first  being  detain 
ed  to  have  my  grips  examined,  then 
stepping  out  on  the  wharf,  the  first  evi 
dence  of  life  I  met  was  "Mary's  little 
lamb."  I  exclaimed,  "All  the  same 
Can-a-da!"  as  we  do  not  have  sheep 
meeting  strangers  coming  into  our 
town.  Then,  after  my  cordial  greeting 
with  the  lamb,  I  looked  around  for  a 
coach,  but  there  was  not  one  in  sight. 
In  a  moment,  however,  I  heard  musical 
voices  calling  out:  "Want  a  coach, 
lady?  Want  a  coach,  lady?"  I  looked 
up  and  standing  on  a  high  hill  above 
me,  were  a  number  of  coachmen.  I 
answered,  "Yes,  I  certainly  do.  Get  a 
move  on  you  and  come  down  here,"  but 
they  said  they  could  not  come  down. 
Then  the  only  thing  left  for  me  to  do 
was  to  pay  the  porter  of  the  boat  two 
bits  to  pack  my  grips,  which  they  call- 
•  118 


Victoria    and   Vancouver,    B.    C. 

ed  bags,  more  than  a  block  up  hill  to 
reach  these  lordly  coachmen.  This 
was  the  first  city  where  I  did  not  find 
coachmen  ready  to  help  a  lady  travel 
ing,  and  gives  a  poor  impression  of  the 
city  to  strangers. 

Overlooking  Victoria  harbor  are  the 
magnificent  capitol  buildings,  erected 
on  a  beautiful  ten  acre  lot,  at  a  cost  of 
$900,000.  These  form  a  group  of 
three  buildings,  the  center  one,  which 
is  surmounted  by  a  dome  150  feet  high, 
contains  the  offices  of  the  several  de 
partments,  and  the  legislative  hall,  with 
committee  rooms  and  library.  The  side 
buildings,  which  are  connected  with 
the  central  one  by  covered  colonnades, 
are  devoted  to  the  printing  department 
and  the  Provincial  museum.  The  foun 
dation  is  of  local  granite,  and  the  su 
perstructure  is  built  of  a  beautiful  light 
colored,  close  grained  sandstone,  from 
119 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

the  Haddington  Island  quarries,  near 
the  north  end  of  Vancouver  Island. 
The  columns  supporting  the  interior 
ceiling  are  of  Italian  marble,  while  the 
walls  of  the  treasury  and  rotunda 
are  finished  in  Tennessee  marble,  and 
native  woods  are  used  for  the  interior 
finish.  Beautiful  lawns,  walks  and 
shade  trees,  surround  the  structure. 

A  strange  occurrence  happened  as  I 
stepped  in  the  main  building.  A  gen 
tleman  stepped  up,  seeing  I  was  a  stran 
ger,  and  kindly  offered  to  show  me 
through  the  buildings.  I  presented  him 
my  card,  and  as  we  were  climbing  the 
long  marble  stairs,  I  somehow  in  the 
conversation  mentioned  Oregon.  He 
turned  and  looked  at  me  with  surprise, 
wanting  to  know  if  that  was  my  home. 
"Oh!  no,"  I  answered,  "my  home  is  in 
Butte,  Montana."  He  then  told  me  that 
his  former  home  had  been  in  Albany, 

120 


Victoria    and   Vancouver,    B.    C. 

Oregon,  and,  I  being  acquainted  with 
so  many  at  that  city,  our  trip  through 
the  buildings  was  very  pleasant.  I  will 
say  right  here,  of  all  the  grand  build 
ings  I  have  gone  through  in  my  trav 
els,  that  Victoria's  parliament  buildings 
excel  them  all.  To  stand  under  the 
dome  and  gaze  into  the  assembly  hall 
beneath,  was  a  sight  of  such  magnifi 
cence,  I  would  not  attempt  to  describe 
it. 

Victoria  is  a  model  residence  city, 
with  its  broad  streets,  beautiful  lawns 
and  parks.  Near  here  are  the  govern 
ment  fortifications  of  Esquimault.  A 
railroad  extends  north  on  Vancouver 
Island,  to  Nanaimo,  Alberni  and  Sid 
ney. 

My  visit  coming  to  an  end  on  the 
island,  I  took  the  steamer  Charmer  and 
crossed  the  straits  of  Georgia,  a  dis 
tance  of  eighty-four  miles  to  the  city 
121 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

of  Vancouver,  the  western  terminus 
of  the  great  transcontinental  line 
stretching  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pa 
cific,  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway, 
with  one  continuous  line  from  Halifax, 
Nova  Scotia,  a  distance  of  3,762  miles, 
besides  its'  numerous  branches  to  every 
city  and  section,  in  that  vast  Dominion 
of  Canada.  The  same  company  has  its 
own  line  of  steamships  and  connections 
to  every  important  harbor  on  the  globe. 

Their  harbor  is  one  of  the  finest  in 
the  world,  it  being  possible  for  the 
Briton's  entire  navy  to  ride  at  anchor 
within  her  land-locked  waters. 

The  great  salmon  fishing  industry  of 
the  Fraser  river,  is  at  its  very  doors. 

I  enjoyed  my  street  car  ride  and  an 
afternoon  well  spent  going  through 
Stanley  Park.  The  perfume  was  so 
fragrant  and  pure  as  I  wandered 
among  the  immense  trees,  occasionally 
122 


Victoria    and    Vancouver,    B.    C. 

stopping  to  have  a  swing,  viewing  all 
the  different  animals  that  I  could  not 
begin  to  mention.  Here  is  also  an  im 
mense  wire  netting,  with  every  species 
of  bird  imaginable  confined  therein. 
Then  I  wandered  down  to  the  placid 
lake  to  view  the  stately  swan  and  oth 
ers  of  the  web-foot  tribe,  as  they  glided 
along  in  peaceful  simplicity.  From 
there  through  a  continuous  stretch  of 
nature's  own  product  of  flowers.  As  I 
was  leaving  the  park,  I  looked  back 
with  a  sigh  for  having  to  leave  this 
bright  spot  of  nature. 

While  in  the  city  I  stopped  at  Hotel 
Vancouver,  owned  by  the  Canadian  Pa 
cific  Railway  Company,  and  for  atten 
tion  and  grandeur  around  the  entire  ho 
tel,  with  its  spacious  dining  room,  noth 
ing  better  can  be  found. 

A  pleasant  feature  to  me  was  that  I 
was  in  Canada  to  celebrate  with  them 
123 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

their  Thanksgiving  on  October  i6th, 
which  meant  two  Thanksgiving  din 
ners  for  me,  and  I  thoroughly  enjoyed 
my  second  one  a  month  later  in  Butte. 

A  short  distance  south  of  the  city,  on 
the  Fraser  river,  is  New  Westminster, 
an  old  established  town,  with  valuable 
trade  in  lumber  and  salmon,  and  im 
portant  manufactures. 

My  festivities  ending  here,  I  crossed 
the  Canadian  line  back  to  my  stars  and 
stripes,  making  a  short  stop  at  the  en 
terprising  town  of  Elaine,  Washing 
ton;  then  on  to  New  Whatcom  and 
Fairhaven. 


124 


BELLINGHAM  AND  EVERETT 


CHAPTER  XV. 
Bellingham  and  Everett. 

New  Whatcom,  on  Bellingham  Bay, 
with  Fairhaven,  make  practically  one 
city,  with  their  immense  shingle  and 
saw-mills  in  continuous  operation. 
They  have  since  been  combined  and 
incorporated  as  the  City  of  Bellingham. 

There  are  large  salmon  canneries 
here,  as  the  fisheries  of  Puget  Sound  is 
an  extensive  and  important  industry. 

The  scenery  is  gorgeous  on  Puget 
Sound,  with  its  many  islands  and  Mt. 
Baker,  having  an  elevation  of  10,827 
feet  for  a  background. 

Anacortes  has  important  fishing  in 
dustries.  Sedro  Woolley  has  large  saw 
and  shingle  mills,  and  as  I  walked  up 
and  down  the  streets,  the  town  pre 
sented  to  me  every  evidence  of  industry. 
Near  here  are  the  coal  mines  of  Coke- 

127 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

dale.  Hamilton  is  a  lumbering  town. 
Mt.  Vernon,  La  Conner  and  Stanwood 
are  lumbering  towns,  and  the  great  oat 
producing  section.  At  Arlington,  Dar- 
rington  and  Marysville,  I  still  found 
lumbering  industries. 

I  found  a  great  improvement  at  Ev 
erett,  a  few  years  ago  it  was  a  small 
town;  now  it  is  a  metropolitan  city, 
with  its  numerous  thriving  enterprises. 
As  I  stood  on  the  balcony  of  Hotel 
Monte  Cristo,  and  gazed  over  Gardner 
Bay  on  Whidby  Island,  I  exclaimed, 
"Nature  cannot  show  me  more  gran 
deur  than  this,"  and  combined  with  the 
hand  of  man  the  vessels  busily  ply 
back  and  forth  upon  its  broad  expans 
ive  waters,  over  the  bay  and  sound  to 
the  Pacific  Ocean. 

The  bay  front  presents  a  busy  ap 
pearance  from  the  saw  and  shingle 
mills,  where  vessels  are  constantly  load 
ing  for  foreign  ports. 

128 


Bellingham  and   Everett 

There  is  a  large  smelter  at  the  point 
of  land  between  Gardner  Bay  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Snohomish  river,  which 
treats  the  ores  of  the  Monte  Cristo  and 
Silverton  mines,  and  large  quantities 
of  custom  ores  are  shipped  here  for 
treatment.  I  made  a  visit  to  the  smel 
ter  and  saw  the  red  liquid  ore,  as  it 
flowed  in  the  large  boiling  pots,  and 
was  then  hauled  away  to  cool;  and  the 
bright  silvery  ore,  as  it  flowed  into  the 
bullion  molds  and  was  conveyed  away 
to  the  refinery.  After  the  thorough 
treatment  there  it  is  shipped  to  the 
mint. 

Everett  has  the  western  terminal 
shops  of  the  Great  Northern  Railroad 
Company.  At  Lowell,  a  suburb  of  the 
city,  is  a  large  paper  mill,  producing 
the  finest  bond  paper  from  wood  pulp. 
The  cottonwood  growing  in  the  sur 
rounding  country  is  brought  here  in 
129 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

cord-wood  lengths;  then  is  taken,  a 
stick  at  a  time,  and  chopped  into  small 
chips,  being  then  carried  to  large  vats 
and  soaked  in  chemicals  until  it  forms 
a  pulp  that  runs  over  hot  rollers,  and 
running  over  continuous  rollers  is  com 
pressed  and  dried,  bringing  it  down  to 
fine  paper.  All  this'  process  is  accom 
plished  by  the  finest  and  most  expensive 
machinery.  The  paper  is  then  wrap 
ped  and  baled  ready  for  shipment. 

In  front  of  the  city,  across  Gardner 
Bay,  on  Whidby  Island,  is  the  town  of 
Coupeville,  the  shipping  point  for  the 
products  of  the  Island.  From  here  one 
has  a  view  of  the  Olympic  mountains  in 
the  distance. 

East  of  Everett,  up  the  river,  is  the 
town  of  Snohomish,  where  are  large 
shingle  and  saw  mills. 

I  now  leave  this  bright  and  enter 
prising  town  and  draw  my  readers'  at 
tention  to  Seattle. 

130 


SEATTLE,  THE  CITY 
OF  DESTINY 


CHAPTER  XVI. 
Seattle,  the  City  of  Destiny. 

Seattle,  the  metropolis  of  the  State 
of  Washington,  is  situated  on  Elliott 
Bay,  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Puget 
Sound.  Its  population  has  doubled  in 
the  last  five  years,  caused  by  the  won 
derful  influx  of  Alaska  gold,  as  it  is 
the  headquarters  for  outfitting,  and 
controls  the  trade  of  Alaska  and  the 
Yukon  territory,  and  is  also  the  base 
of  supplies  for  the  Puget  Sound  navy 
yard.  It  has  the  best  navy  dry-dock  on 
the  Pacific  Coast  and  the  largest  dry- 
dock  in  the  United  States.  The  battle 
ship  Nebraska  is  now  under  construc 
tion  here  for  the  American  government. 

More  than  seventy  steamers  are  en 
gaged,  this  being  the  center  of  the 
Sound  steamship  traffic,  besides  lines 
133 


Leaves       of      Knowledge 

of  steamships  to  Japan  and  the  Orient. 
The  great  transcontinental  railroads 
meet  the  ships  of  the  world  in  the  com 
merce  of  the  Pacific,  being  the  shortest 
route  between  New  York  and  the  Asi 
atic  harbors. 

There  are  extensive  flour  mills  here. 
It  is  the  center  of  the  lumber  industries 
and  leads  in  shipbuilding  in  the  Pacific 
Northwest.  Seattle  is'  the  base  of  sup 
plies  for  the  salmon  and  deep  sea  fish 
eries  and  is  surrounded  by  a  great  num 
ber  of  valuable  coal  mines. 

Some  of  the  towns  near  here  are  very 
important,  the  principal  ones  being  Is- 
saquah,  Black  Diamond,  Newcastle  and 
Roslyn,  east  of  the  Cascade  mountains. 
The  largest  lumber  mills'  in  the  United 
states  are  at  Port  Blakely,  which  has 
an  extensive  foreign  trade.  At  Port 
Gamble  and  Port  Ludlow  are  immense 
saw  milling  plants.  Near  Port  Orch- 
134 


Seattle,    the    City     of    Destiny 

ard  is  Bremerton,  the  United  States  na 
val  station.  The  City  of  Ballard  has 
numerous  saw  mills  and  is  the  greatest 
shingle  producing  city  in  the  world. 

A  government  canal  will  connect  Pu- 
get  Sound  with  Lakes  Union  and 
Washington,  at  Seattle,  providing  fresh 
water  harbors. 

The  army  post,  Fort  Lawton,  is  at 
Magnolia  Bluff. 

Seattle  has  every  reason  to  be  proud 
of  her  school  system.  In  addition  to 
her  public  schools  is  the  magnificent 
university,  endowed  by  the  state.  The 
city  is  blessed  with  a  delightfully  even 
climate,  grand  scenery,  with  a  fine  nat 
ural  harbor,  protected  from  storms,  and 
the  largest  vessels  afloat  can  come  into 
its  docks  at  all  stages  of  tide. 

On  going  up  and  down  the  streets 
and  seeing  the  crowds  of  people,  each 
one  attending  to  his  or  her  line  of  bus- 
135 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

iness,  with  such  a  rush  and  stir,  trains 
coming  and  going  in  all  directions, 
crowded  with  passengers  from  every 
nation,  and  laden  with  freight  from  its 
own  and  central  states  for  shipment 
to  foreign  countries,  vessels  being  con 
tinuously  loaded  and  unloaded  at  its 
numerous  docks  and  wharves,  and  bus 
ily  plying  back  and  forth  on  that  im 
mense  inland  sea,  both  for  the  local  and 
the  Oriental  trans-Pacific  trade,  with 
lumber,  coal,  fruit  and  fish  at  its  com 
mand,  backed  by  its  enterprising  citi 
zens,  one  must  exclaim  that  nature  has 
thus  evidently  marked  out  the  city  of 
exalted  destinies. 


136 


TACOMA,  AND  OLYMPIA,  THE 
CAPITAL  OF  WASHINGTON 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Tacoma,  and  Olympia,  the  Capital  of 
Washington. 

The  City  of  Tacoma,  where  I  made 
my  next  stop,  is  beautifully  situated  on 
Commencement  Bay,  on  the  east  side 
of  Puget  Sound. 

Here  are  the  great  terminal  shops  of 
the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad.  This 
company  has  built  immense  elevators 
and  warehouses,  and  from  their  docks 
shipments  of  wheat  and  flour  are  made 
to  the  Orient,  the  same  company  also 
having  their  fast  passenger  and  freight 
steamships',  that  make  their  regular 
trips  on  the  waters  of  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

Tacoma  has  numerous  saw  mills  and 
an  enormous  business  in  the  manufac 
ture  and  shipment  of  lumber.  Here  is 
the  country  of  big  trees ;  unsurpassed  in 
size  are  the  fir,  cedar,  pine  and  other 
139 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

timber  used  for  the  manufacture  of 
shingles  and  lumber.  Across  the  Sound 
is  the  lumbering  town  of  Shelton. 
There  are  numerous  coal  mines  adja 
cent,  the  principal  ones  being  at  the 
towns  of  Carbonado,  Wilkeson  and 
Pittsburg. 

Near  here  are  the  great  fruit  sec 
tions  of  Puyallup,  Buckley,  Auburn, 
Sumner  and  Orting,  all  increasing  the 
immense  trade  of  Tacoma. 

The  hunting  and  fishing  are  practi 
cally  unlimited.  The  climate  is  salu 
brious,  seldom  freezing  weather  and 
never  very  hot,  being  both  a  glorious 
and  perpetual  summer  and  winter  re 
sort. 

I  viewed  from  the  Tacoma  hotel  the 
unsurpassed  scenery  across  the  beauti 
ful  harbor  and  level  expanse,  and  that 
giant,  far-famed  and  widely  known  Ta- 


140 


Tacoma        and       Olympia 

coma's  proud  snow-capped  peak,  tow 
ering  14,532  feet  above  the  sea  level. 

Near  the  city  is  Steilacoom,  where  is 
located  the  State  Western  Insane  Asy 
lum,  the  Eastern  State  Asylum  being 
at  Medical  Lake,  near  Spokane. 

At  the  head  of  Puget  Sound,  with 
its  2,000  miles  of  shore  line,  is  Olym 
pia,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Wash 
ington. 

Gate  City  is  the  junction  of  the  road 
from  here  and  the  one  branching  off 
from  Centralia  on  the  main  line  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  going  to  Gray's  Har 
bor. 

A  short  distance  further  west  is  the 
lumbering  town  of  Elma,  which  I  take 
a  great  pride  in,  on  account  of  its  name, 
being,  as  you  see,  the  same  as  my  own. 
It  is  a  busy  little  city  with  important 
railway  connections,  in  addition  to  its 
thriving  lumbering  trade. 
141 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

Montesano  has  also  important  lum 
bering  industries. 

I  now  make  my  second  stop  at  Aber 
deen,  at  the  head  of  Gray's  Harbor , 
and  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Che- 
halis  river,  where  vessels  are  constant 
ly  being  loaded  with  lumber  and  ship 
ped  to  San  Francisco  and  foreign  ports. 
Also  the  saw  mills  are  kept  continually 
in  operation,  furnishing  the  manufac 
tured  lumber  for  shipment  by  train  to 
eastern  markets.  Here  is  the  home  of 
that  beautiful  bird  called  "Glebe,"  from 
the  breasts  of  which  are  made  magnif 
icent  shoulder  capes. 

I  made  a  trip  over  to  Cosmopolis  on 
the  gasoline  launch  Maud  S.,  and  an 
other  trip  by  boat  to  South  Aberdeen, 
and  they,  as  well  as  Hoquiam,  were  one 
continual  bustle  in  the  manufacture  and 
shipment  of  lumber.  "Ocosta  by  the 
Sea"  and  the  summer  resort  of  West- 

142 


Tacoma        and       Olympia 

port,  constitute  the  towns  of  this  pros 
perous  inland  sea  of  Gray's  Harbor. 

I  then  went  to  Centralia  and  Buco- 
da,  where  I  found  the  same  stir  in  the 
sawing  and  shipment  of  lumber. 

At  Chehalis  is  still  lumbering  indus 
tries,  and  the  junction,  branching  off 
to  South  Bend,  on  Willapa  Harbor, 
where  is  the  home  of  the  oysters. 

At  Long  Beach  is  a  fashionable  sum 
mer  resort. 

At  the  mouth  of  that  great  and  glo 
rious  Columbia  river,  which  gives  pros 
perity  to  Washington  and  Oregon,  is 
Ilwaco,  with  salmon  fisheries  and  can 
neries. 

At  Castle  Rock,  Kelso  and  Kalama 
may  be  heard  the  buzz  of  the  saw,  dem 
onstrating  the  manufacture  of  lumber. 

I  will  now  take  my  reader  with  me 
for  a  brief  stop  at  Portland,  Oregon. 


143 


NORTHERN  OREGON,  SOUTHERN 
AND  EASTERN  IDAHO 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Northern  Oregon,  Southern  and  Eastern 
Idaho. 

The  air  in  Portland  did  certainly 
seem  good  to  me;  the  mist  was  coming 
down  gently,  yet  constantly,  just  mak 
ing  enough  mud  to  be  noticed.  I  kept 
my  windows  open  day  and  night  and  in 
the  morning  woke  up  feeling  so  refresh 
ed  and  bright  from  inhaling  that  pure 
and  balmy  November  air. 

I  noticed  that  the  people  of  Portland, 
and  in  fact  the  entire  State,  were  mak 
ing  great  preparations  to  celebrate  the 
Lewis  and  Clarke  Exposition  in  1905. 
There  I  will  commemorate  the  hun 
dredth  anniversary  of  the  Lewis  and 
Clarke  explorations  of  the  glorious 
West;  when  people  will  congregate 
from  every  nation  to  enjoy  Oregon's 
delightful  climate  and  witness  the  great 
147 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

prosperity  and  advancement  of  the  yet 
young  country. 

After  a  two  weeks'  pleasant  sojourn 
in  the  city,  I  went  east  over  the  Oregon 
Railroad  and  Navigation,  231  miles,  to 
Pendleton,  a  city  busy  with  the  ship 
ments  of  wheat,  cattle  and  sheep,  prod 
ucts  of  the  great  stock  and  agricultural 
country  surrounding.  Here  a  branch  of 
the  Oregon  Railroad  and  Navigation 
runs  north  to  Walla  Walla,  the  Palouse 
country  and  Spokane,  Washington. 

La  Grande  has  a  beet  sugar  factory, 
with  immense  stock  raising. 

A  branch  road  runs  to  Elgin,  in  the 
Grand  Ronde  valley,  and  the  Wallowa 
country. 

East  of  La  Grande  is  the  celebrated 
Hot  Lake,  a  natural  flow  of  hot  water 
coming  from  the  mountain  side,  spread 
ing  itself  out  into  a  large  lake,  whose 
medicinal  properties  are  very  beneficial. 
148 


Northern  Oregon,  Southern  Idaho 

Union  has  valuable  stock  interests. 

At  Baker  City  I  had  a  home  feeling 
from  again  being  among  rich  and  val 
uable  mines,  there  being  many  rich 
gold  producing  properties  tributary  to 
the  city. 

Stock  raising  on  a  large  scale  has 
been  conducted  here,  and  today  great 
herds  of  cattle  and  horses  roam  at  will 
over  these  seemingly  boundless  ranges, 
and  thousands  have  been  shipped  and 
are  continually  being  shipped  yearly, 
from  the  extensive  surrounding  ranges 
of  Eastern  Oregon.  From  here  a 
branch  line  extends  to  Sumpter  and 
Whitney,  bringing  in  the  ore  from  the 
rich  mines  of  the  Blue  Mountains. 

Horses,  cattle  and  sheep  from  the 
stock  ranges  of  the  Burns  and  Canyon 
City  sections  all  bring  prosperity  and 
business  to  Baker  City. 


149 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

At  Huntington  is  the  division  point 
and  connection  of  the  Oregon  Railway 
&  Navigation  Co.  with  the  Oregon 
Short  Line  Railroad. 

Here  I  cross  the  Snake  river,  arriv 
ing  at  Weiser,  Idaho.  This  town  is  the 
outlet  of  the  Seven  Devils  mines,  a 
branch  line  having  been  finished  as  far 
as  Council.  The  smelter  for  the  mines 
is  built  adjoining  Weiser,  and  the  en 
tire  section  is  prospering  raising  fruit, 
aided  by  irrigation.  Between  Weiser 
and  Payette  is  one  beautiful  stretch  of 
fruit  trees,  melon  patches  and  every  va 
riety  of  fruit  that  can  be  grown  in  a 
mild,  temperate  climate,  interspersed 
with  fields  of  alfalfa,  from  which  are 
cut  four  crops  of  hay  a  year,  averaging 
two  tons  per  acre  for  each  crop.  The 
Payette  river  empties  into  Snake  river, 
making  abundance  of  water  for  irrigat 
ing  purposes,  consequently  the  whole 
150 


Northern  Oregon,  Southern  Idaho 

valley,  as  well  as  Payette,  is  very  pros 
perous. 

The  railroad  again  crosses  the  Snake 
river  into  Oregon  before  it  reaches  On 
tario.  Near  here  the  Malheur  river 
joins  the  Snake,  which  I  soon  again 
crossed,  arriving  at  Palma,  Idaho. 
There,  and  at  Caldwell,  is  the  same 
rich  country,  made  productive  by  irri 
gation,  from  the  waters  of  the  Snake 
river  and  its  tributaries. 

Arriving  at  Nampa,  Idaho,  I  gaze 
in  wonderment,  for  the  sage  brush  is 
entirely  gone,  and  in  its  place  are  the 
broad  fields  of  hay,  grain,  and  all  kinds 
of  fruit.  There  is  no  uncertainty  what 
ever  as  to  the  future  of  these  irrigable 
lands,  with  the  impounding  of  the  flood 
waters  of  the  streams,  so  that  the  an 
nual  wastage  may  be  saved  and  util 
ized  at  the  season  of  irrigation.  Pas 
tures  verdant  and  beautiful,  orchards 

151 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

of  luscious  fruits,  fields  of  waving 
grain,  and  homes  ornamented  with 
vines  and  flowers  has  succeeded  the 
gray  areas  of  sage  brush,  through  the 
efforts  of  this  bright  and  enterprising 
class  of  people.  And  for  the  climate  I 
will  state  it  is  one  that  is  healthy,  brac 
ing  and  invigorating.  Nampa  has  the 
Dewey  Palace,  which  is  unsurpassed  in 
architectural  design  by  any  hotel  in  the 
West. 

Here  also  has  been  erected  an  elegant 
depot  by  the  Oregon  Short  Line  Rail 
road  Company,  as  this  is  an  important 
railroad  center,  with  a  line  extending 
south  to  Murphy,  the  distributing  point 
for  the  rich  gold  and  silver  mines  of 
Silver  City.  To  the  north  extends  an 
other  line,  through  the  valleys  to  Em- 
mett,  the  supply  point  for  the  tributary 
lumber  sections.  This  is  also  a  rich 
fruit  country  and  is  surrounded  by  val- 
152 


Northern  Oregon,  Southern  Idaho 

uable  mines.  Also  from  Nampa,  the 
Boise  special  runs  to  the  capital,  a  dis 
tance  of  twenty  miles,  passing  Meri 
dian,  where  a  large  creamery  is  in  op 
eration;  and  through  extensive  fruit 
farms. 

From  Nampa  I  passed  through 
Mountain  Home  and  Glenn's  Ferry  and 
on  to  Shoshone,  where  a  branch  line 
extends  north  to  Bellevue  and  the  sil 
ver  mining  towns  of  Hailey  and  Ketch- 
urn.  South  on  the  Snake  river  is  Sho 
shone  Falls,  from  which  extensive  elec 
tric  power  is  being  developed.  At 
American  Falls  is  another  power  plant. 
Here  I  again  cross  that  noted  Snake 
river  and  stop  at  Pocatello,  the  second 
city  of  Idaho. 

Pocatello  is  the  great  division 
headquarters  for  the  Oregon  Short 
Line  system,  and  where  immense  rail 
road  shops  have  been  constructed  to 

153 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

handle  the  business  extending  east  and 
west,  north  and  south  from  Butte 
to  Salt  Lake  City.  The  road  crosses 
here  nearly  at  right  angles.  It  has  a 
State  school,  substantial  business  blocks 
and  commodious  homes.  Pocatello  has 
valuable  mines  in  the  vicinity  and  the 
whole  section  is  engaged  in  stock  rais 
ing. 

East  of  here  is  Soda  Springs,  then 
Montpelier,  the  outlet  for  the  Bear 
Lake  valley,  and,  with  Paris,  on  Bear 
Lake,  and  Malade,  on  the  south,  are 
the  largest  southeastern  Idaho  towns. 

On  the  line  north  is  Blackfoot, 
where  is  located  the  State  asylum. 
Blackfoot  has  a  branch  line  running  to 
the  town  of  Mackay,  where  smelters 
work  the  ores  of  the  mines  of  central 
Idaho. 

I  inhale  the  sweet  perfume  of  sage 
brush  as  I  run  along  to  Idaho  Falls.  I 
154 


Northern  Oregon,  Southern  Idaho 

found  great  improvements  had  been 
made  here,  being  a  great  vegetable 
raising  country,  made  productive  by 
irrigation.  Its  progressive  citizens 
have  since  put  in  a  beet  sugar  factory, 
in  fact  "the  half  has  never  been  told" 
of  the  improvements  I  notice  each 
and  every  time  as  I  pass  through  the 
many  Idaho  towns. 

A  branch  line  runs  from  here  to  Rex- 
burg  and  St.  Anthony,  where,  by  the 
construction  of  ditches  and  canals  for 
irrigating  purposes,  the  waters  of  the 
Snake  river  are  utilized.  If  my  read 
ers  have  followed  me,  they  will  find 
this  river  in  evidence  in  three  different 
States,  Idaho,  Oregon  and  Washing 
ton,  where  it  connects'  with  the  Colum 
bia  at  Pasco.  And  in  many  sections,  by 
the  aid  of  irrigation,  it  has  made  the 
sage  brush  desert  change  to  productive 
farms,  thriving  villages  and  populous 
155 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

o 

towns.  I  will  now  go  back  to  that 
"Dear  Butte,"  to  have  my  second 
Thanksgiving  dinner,  and  celebrate  the 
holidays  with  my  many  friends,  having 
traveled  on  different  railroads  a  total 
distance  of  twenty-seven  thousand,  sev 
en  hundred  and  four  miles,  during  the 
last  year. 


156 


EASTERN  TRIP  TO 
ST.  LOUIS 


CHAPTER  XIX. 
Eastern  Trip  to  St.  Louis. 

After  a  delightful  trip  of  over  two 
months,  in  the  warm  and  moist  climate 
of  the  Pacific  Coast,  I  arrive  back  home 
to  find  snow,  and  as  usual  the  smoke. 
But  for  all  we  have  the  disagreeable 
smoke  caused  by  the  smelters,  from 
which  we  get  the  fumes  of  arsenic  and 
sulphur,  it  still  seems  to  be  invigorat 
ing,  and  gives  activity  to  the  brain,  for 
the  people  of  Butte  show  more  life 
than  I  find  elsewhere,  and  there  is  more 
stir  than  in  any  city  in  America,  ac 
cording  to  its  population.  Its  streets 
are  always'  crowded  with  busy,  well 
dressed  citizens,  who  all  have  plenty 
of  money,  regardless  of  their  vocation, 
and  certainly  know  how  to  enjoy  them 
selves.  I  remained  in  Butte  until  May 
159 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

12,  1903,  when  I  took  the  Burlington 
for  an  eastern  trip,  and  was  treated  with 
every  courtesy  over  their  system.  I 
went  over  the  Northern  Pacific  track 
as  far  as  Billings,  where  I  changed  to 
their  own  line,  and  after  riding  about 
fifty  miles  I  passed  Fort  Custer,  near 
the  Crow  agency,  and  the  monuments 
which  mark  the  spot  where  General 
Custer  and  his  followers  were  massa 
cred  by  the  Indians. 

Formerly  I  have  described  every  city 
and  important  town,  as  I  saw  them,  and 
knew  the  conditions  thereof.  From 
now  on  I  will  explain  any  important 
place  as  I  pass  through,  with  a  fuller 
description  of  the  places  where  I  stop 
to  gratify  my  own  enjoyment. 

I  now  leave  Montana  and  pass 
through  the  coal  mining  town  of  Sher 
idan,  Wyoming.  At  Edgemont,  South 
Dakota,  a  branch  line  extends  north  to 
160 


Eastern    Trip    to    St.    Louis 

Deadwood,  and  the  famous  gold  mines 
of  the  Black  Hills. 

From  Alliance,  Nebraska,  a  branch 
extends  south  to  Denver,  Colorado, 
with  connections  to  Cheyenne  and  Lar- 
amie,  Wyoming. 

I  made  a  short  stop  at  Lincoln,  Ne 
braska,  where  one  branch  extends  to 
Omaha  and  Council  Bluffs,  Iowa.  At 
St.  Joseph,  Missouri,  I  was  detained 
for  some  time  within  two  miles  of  the 
depot.  Our  train  had  been  running  at 
the  rate  of  sixty  miles  an  hour  to  make 
up  for  lost  time,  and  on  stopping  at  a 
little  station,  smash  went  the  front 
wheel  of  our  engine.  This  caused  the 
passengers  to  all  look  serious,  when 
each  one  thought  what  might  have  been 
had  the  wheel  gone  to  pieces  when  we 
were  running  at  such  speed,  as  the 
trainmen  claimed  that  the  wheel  had 
been  broken  for  some  time,  but  did  not 
161 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

go  to  pieces  on  account  of  its  great  ve 
locity.  After  awhile  a  freight  train 
came  along  and  pushed  us  into  the  de 
pot.  I  was  in  St.  Joe  long  enough  to 
have  lunch,  ice  cream  soda,  and  to  be 
one  of  the  spectators  at  a  very  lively 
runaway. 

Our  train  going  to  Kansas  City,  I 
changed  cars  going  on  to  St.  Louis, 
where  I  stopped  to  view  the  city  and 
the  preparations  being  made  for  the 
commemoration  of  the  one  hundredth 
anniversary  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase, 
whereby  our  government  acquired  what 
now  consists  of  fourteen  states  and 
territories,  among  them  the  greater  por 
tion  of  our  noble  State  of  Montana. 

St.  Louis  is  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Mississippi  river,  through  which  an 
immense  traffic  is  carried  on,  both 
north  to  its  head  and  south  to  New  Or 
leans,  and  its  mouth  at  the  Gulf  of 

162 


Eastern    Trip    to    St.     Louis 

Mexico.  There  are  also  twenty-seven 
different  lines  of  railway,  carrying  pas 
sengers  and  freight  in  all  directions. 
This  city  has  the  largest  union  depot 
on  earth,  erected  at  a  cost  of  six  million 
and  a  half  dollars. 

St.  Louis  is  the  fourth  city  in  popu 
lation  in  the  United  States,  being  a 
great  commercial,  manufacturing  and 
wholesale  market.  The  exposition  will 
cost  fifty  million  dollars,  and  will  have 
under  cover  over  one  hundred  acres  of 
floor  space  for  exhibits,  and  has  en 
closed  by  fences  twelve  hundred  and 
forty  acres,  and  there  are  over  three 
hundred  separate  buildings,  ranging 
from  eighteen  acres  down  to  the  small 
er  ones. 

The  "Pike"  will  be  to  the  fair  of 
1904  what  the  famous  "Midway"  was 
to  the  fair  of  1893,  and  the  "Ivory 


163 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

City"  of  St.  Louis  will  be  even  more 
amazing  than  was  the  wonderful 
"White  City"  of  Chicago. 


164 


HISTORIC  SCENES  ON 
THE  POTOMAC 


CHAPTER  XX. 
Historic  Scenes  on   the  Potomac. 

From  St.  Louis  I  take  the  Baltimore 
&  Ohio  Railroad,  crossing  the  Missis 
sippi  river,  pass  through  southern  Il 
linois,  Indiana,  and  stop  at  Cincinnati, 
Ohio,  the  great  manufacturing  city  on 
the  Ohio  river  and  the  metropolis  of 
that  valley.  I  cross  the  Ohio  river,  at 
Parkersburg,  West  Virginia,  where  this 
railroad  figured  prominently,  from  here 
to  Washington,  during  the  civil  war, 
and  was  in  a  practical  state  of  seige  for 
nearly  four  years. 

I  pass  through  the  numerous  oil  and 
coal  fields  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
State  of  West  Virginia,  with  a  stop  at 
Cumberland,  Maryland,  the  largest  city 
in  the  Alleghany  Mountains.  Cumber 
land  is  built  on  the  site  of  Fort  Cum- 
167 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

berland,  where  General  Braddock  and 
George  Washington  made  their  head 
quarters  during  the  French  and  Indian 
war. 

Shenandoah  Junction  was  the  scene 
of  many  skirmishes  during  the  civil 
war,  and  brought  back  to  my  mind  the 
great  war  play  of  "Shenandoah," 
which  I  saw  so  beautifully  staged  at  the 
Marquam  Grand  in  Portland,  Oregon. 
The  next  stop  was  at  Harper's  Ferry, 
the  most  picturesque,  beautiful  and  his 
toric  spot  in  America.  Here  I  got  out 
of  the  car  and  put  my  hand  on  the  mon 
ument  which  brought  back  that  old  song 
to  me,  "John  Brown's  body  lies  a- 
mouldering  in  the  grave,"  for  he,  with 
his  handful  of  brave  followers,  shed  the 
first  blood,  and  the  monument  to  him 
stands  on  the  spot  where  his  improvised 
"fort"  stood  forty  years  ago.  The 
story  of  the  invasion  of  Harper's  Ferry 
168 


Historic    Scenes    on   the   Potomac 

is  told  by  the  government  tablets 
alongside  the  monument. 

To  the  right  is  the  Shenandoah  riv 
er,  emptying  into  the  Potomac  river. 
Across  the  Shenandoah  is  the  big 
mountain,  known  as  Louden  Heights, 
on  the  Viriginia  side.  Back  of  the  town 
is  Bolivar  Heights.  Crossing  the  steel 
bridge  over  the  Potomac,  passing 
through  a  tunnel  cut  through  the  base 
of  Maryland  Heights,  I  reach  Weaver- 
ton,  where  General  Burnside  crossed 
the  railroad,  en  route  to  Washington, 
from  the  battle  of  Antietam. 

At  Brunswick,  terminals  and  railroad 
yards  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Rail 
road,  is  where  General  Meade's  army 
recrossed  the  Potomac  on  the  return 
from  the  battle  of  Gettysburg  to  Wash 
ington. 

Point  of  Rocks  is  one  of  the  most  pic 
turesque  sections  of  Maryland.  Here 

169 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

the  railroad  leaves  the  Potomac  river, 
having  been  in  companionship  for  near 
ly  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  During 
the  civil  war  this  part  of  the  country 
was  constantly  occupied  by  both  armies, 
crossing  and  recrossing  the  Potomac  at 
this  place,  occasioning  many  skirmishes. 

Fourteen  miles  north  of  Washington 
Junction,  on  Frederick  Branch,  is  Fred 
erick,  the  old  home  of  "Barbara  Friet- 
chie,"  who  was  so  patriotic,  waving  her 
union  flag  while  the  Southern  forces 
were  passing  her  residence.  It  came 
very  forcibly  to  my  mind,  almost  fancy 
ing  I  could  see  her,  as  scarcely  a  year 
before  I  had  seen  it  so  completely  rep 
resented  at  the  Broadway  Theater  at 
Butte,  Montana. 

This  day's  ride  was  thoroughly  in 
teresting,  and  I  will  say  it  is  worth  both 
the  time  and  money  one  spends  to  view 
what  was  once  the  old  battlefields,  and 
170 


Historic  Scenes   on    the    Potomac 

to  yet  see  some  of  the  old  stone  castles 
that  were  at  one  time  ocupied  by  the 
southern  aristocracy. 

The  employes  of  this  road  made 
themselves  very  entertaining,  by  ex 
plaining  and  pointing  out  every  place 
of  interest  to  the  many  passengers.  This 
was  the  first  railroad  built  in  America, 
dating  its  existence  from  1828,  the 
first  to  have  steam  locomdtives  and 
first  to  us'e  telegraph  lines. 

I  sat  in  the  "observation  end  of  the 
car"  all  day,  viewing  the  historical 
scenes  associated  with  the  French  and 
Indian  War,  the  Revolutionary  War, 
the  War  of  1812  and  the  Civil  War, 
and  heard  the  explanations.  I  at  times 
would  almost  fancy  I  could  see  those 
soldiers  on  the  battlefield,  crossing  the 
Potomac  river  at  early  sunrise,  and 
hear  the  roar  of  the  artillery.  But  the 
scene  has  changed  since  then,  and  hap- 
171 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

piness  prevails  under  one  government, 
one  flag  and  one  National  Capital, 
which  I  now  reach,  Washington,  the 
District  of  Columbia. 


172 


WASHINGTON,  D.  C,  THE 
NATION'S  CAPITAL 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Washington,  D.  C,  the  Nation's 
Capital. 

The  wealth  and  love  of  the  American 
people  contribute  to  the  increasing  glory 
of  the  Queenly  Washington,  such  a  visit 
as  mine  sets  the  heart  on  fire  with  great 
er  devotion,  broadens  the  conception  of 
our  country's  greatness  and  quickens 
into  action  our  lofty  patriotism. 

One  pleasant  afternoon  I  enjoyed  a 
delightful  tour  of  the  city  on  the  "See 
ing  Washington  Car,"  and  heard  ex 
plained  a  thousand  points  of  interest 
during  my  twenty-five  miles  of  sight 
seeing.  This  car  affords  visitors  a 
luxurious  and  quick  way  of  seeing 
Washington,  and  viewing  from  com 
fortable,  restful  environments  the  pub 
lic  buildings,  the  grand  boulevards,  the 
175 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

residences  of  noble  men  of  the  past  and 
of  the  present,  the  beautiful  parks,  the 
magnificent  monuments,  the  picturesque 
Potomac  river,  the  quaint  negro  scenes 
on  market  days,  the  historic  spots  and 
the  twentieth  century  business  sections 
of  the  city. 

I  visited  all  the  principal  public  build 
ings  and  saw  the  beautiful  architectural 
designs  of  the  Congressional  Library 
in  the  evening,  the  Capitol  Building, 
the  White  House,  Treasury  Depart 
ment,  War,  State  and  Navy  Buildings, 
Pension,  Patent  and  Government  Print 
ing  Office,  and  viewed  the  Monument 
and  Statue  of  General  Washington,  La 
fayette  Statue  and  Square,  Farragut 
Statue  and  Square,  Peace  Monument, 
Jackson  Statue,  Garfield  Statue,  Monu 
ment  of  Lincoln,  Slave  Statue,  the  park 
where  annually  Emancipation  Day  is 
observed,  and  all  those  numerous 

176 


Washington,  D.  C,  the  Nation's  Capital 

monuments  and  statues  erected  to  the 
memory  of  noble  heroes.  I  was  at  the 
Baltimore  and  Potomac  Depot  and 
viewed  the  room  where  President 
Garfield  was  shot,  looking  through 
the  window  to  the  street  from 
which  Guiteau  watched  for  the  approach 
of  the  President.  The  spot  used  to  be 
marked  by  a  large  silver  star,  but  it  had 
to  be  removed  on  account  of  the  throngs 
of  people  continually  around  it. 

I  was  at  Ford's  Theatre,  now  being 
used  as  a  museum,  where  President 
Lincoln  was  assassinated.  The  house 
across  the  street  has  its  flag  still  waving 
from  the  window  of  the  room  in  which 
the  president  died. 

The  Smithsonian  Institute  and  Na 
tional  Museum  were  also  very  interest 
ing.  While  here  I  visited  a  number  of 
the  near-by  places  of  interest.  My  first 
trip  was  across  the  Potomac  river  to 
177 


Leaves      of       Knowle  d^g  e 

the  Arlington  cemetery,  State  of  Vir 
ginia.  On  leaving  the  street  car  and  the 
massive  iron  gates,  which  swung  ajar 
as  I  passed  through,  I  stood  in  wonder 
ment,  gazing  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach  over  one  continuous  mass  of  little 
headstones,  I  should  judge  about  two 
feet  high,  relieved  here  and  there  by  an 
immense  monument  that  friends  of  the 
departed  had  placed  to  their  memory.  I 
passed  on  down  the  broad  walk,  stop 
ping  to  talk  with  several  gravediggers, 
who  were  busily  employed  preparing 
the  narrow  resting  places  for  more  of 
those  noble  boys  who  had  given  their 
lives  for  their  country.  I  was  told  by 
the  attendants  that  there  were  nineteen 
thousand  reposing  within  this  block  of 
ground,  who  at  one  time  had  defended 
the  nation. 

The  manager  and  wife  having  a  mu 
tual  friend  of  mine  in  Butte,  and  having 
178 


Washington,  D.  G,  the  Nation's  Capital 

previously  been  in  Montana,  made 
many  inquiries  about  the  west,  and  did 
everything  in  their  power  to  make  it 
pleasant  for  me,  not  only  showing  me 
everything  connected  with  the  cemetery 
but  also  the  entire  grounds  and  the 
buildings  that  were  formerly  occupied 
by  General  Robert  E.  Lee,  commander 
of  the  Confederate  army.  And  while 
we  were  chatting,  Major  Drum 
drew  my  attention  to  the  fact  that  this 
was  the  room,  and  pointed  to  the  spot 
where  the  general  stood  when  he  was 
married.  On  leaving  the  premises,  the 
major  and  wife  accompanied  me  to  the 
car  line,  pointing  out  the  graves  of  not 
ed  men.  One  of  these  coming  to  my 
mind,  I  asked  to  be  shown  the  resting 
place  of  that  brave  General  Lawton,  for 
I  was  deeply  interested  and  much  con 
cerned  on  reading  the  account  of  his 
death.  I  do  not  know  why,  but  seem- 
179 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

ingly  I  always  had  a  desire  to  see  the 
grave  of  him  who  gave  his  life  so  fear 
lessly,  and  was  dealt  with  so  treacher 
ously  by  the  Filipinos. 

I  may  say  that  the  officials  at  our  na 
tion's  capital  were  cordial  and  atten 
tive,  doing  everything  possible  to  make 
it  pleasant  and  to  show  me  all  that 
might  interest  me. 

At  Mt.  Vernon  is  the  burial  place  of 
our  first  president  and  general,  George 
Washington. 

Annapolis,  the  capital  of  Maryland, 
on  Chesapeake  Bay,  has  the  United 
States  Naval  Academy. 

Baltimore  is  the  metropolis,  seaport 
and  principal  manufacturing  center  of 
the  State  of  Maryland. 

I  crossed  the  Susquehanna  river,  at 

the  head  of  Chesapeake  Bay,  on  the 

Delaware   river,    to  Wilmingfton,   the 

largest  city  of  the  State  of  Delaware, 

180 


Washington,  D.  C.,  the  Nation's  Capital 

having  an  excellent  harbor.  The  noted 
Dupont  gunpowder  works  are  near  by. 

Up  the  Delaware  river  is  Philadel 
phia,  the  largest  city  of  the  State  of 
Pennsylvania  and  the  third  city  in  the 
United  States  in  population  and  manu 
factures,  the  center  of  foreign,  domes 
tic  and  coast  trade. 

I  then  crossed  over  to  Trenton,  the 
capital  of  New  Jersey,  and  through  the 
town  of  New  Brunswick,  in  the  central 
portion  of  the  state,  to  Newark,  the 
largest  city,  and  on  to  Jersey  City,  the 
terminus  of  railway  and  steamship 
lines,  to  that  largest  city  on  the  west 
ern  hemisphere  and  the  second  in  the 
world,  Greater  New  York. 


181 


GREATER  NEW  YORK 


CHAPTER  XXII. 
Greater  New   York. 

On  visiting  all  other  cities  I  could 
draw  a  comparison,  but  New  York  is 
a  city  of  itself.  None  other  exists  like 
it,  with  its  steel  structures  looming  sky 
ward  twenty  and  sometimes  thirty  sto 
ries  high.  As  I  looked  from  my  room 
window  in  the  hotel,  it  seemed  but  one 
vast  sea  of  buildings,  and  in  the  even 
ing  it  was  rather  amusing  to  see  men, 
women  and  children  coming  up  on  the 
flat  roofed  houses,  from  little  thatched 
doors,  to  get  a  breath  of  fresh  air,  and 
even  the  dogs,  without  a  play-ground, 
would  be  on  the  roofs  in  the  day-time. 
And  to  look  at  the  electric  lights  in 
some  of  the  office  blocks  at  eventide 
was  like  looking  at  the  stars. 


185 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

I  visited  the  stock  exchange,  the 
sub-treasury  building,  Wall  street, 
that  financial  center  controlling  the 
world;  and  to  and  fro  the  entire 
length  of  busy  Broadway,  with  its  em 
poriums'  rivalling  those  of  any  city  of 
the  globe,  and  the  Fifth  avenue  drive 
way,  with  its  magnificent  homes.  One 
that  surpassed  them  all  was  in  course 
of  construction,  and  was  one  that  I  took 
great  interest  in  examining,  on  account 
of  it  belonging  to  our  home  citizen  and 
United  States  senator  from  Montana, 
W.  A.  Clark. 

To  get  a  general  idea  of  New  York, 
take  its  "Seeing  New  York  Automo 
biles  and  Coaches,"  visiting  the  historic 
section,  in  its  Dutch,  British  and  Amer 
ican  periods;  the  Bowery,  Chinatown, 
Brooklyn,  Castle  Garden,  Central  Park, 
the  Grand  Boulevards,  the  historic 
Hudson  river,  Columbia  University, 
186 


Greater       N 


e  w        I    o  r 


General  Grant's  tomb,  statues  of  Chris 
topher  Columbus  and  William  Shakes 
peare.  And  take  the  "Seeing  Yacht," 
encircling  the  island  of  Manhatton, 
showing  the  statue  of  Liberty,  Black- 
well's  island,  Jersey  City,  Brooklyn, 
Harlem,  Bronx,  the  navy  yard,  the 
ocean  liners  and  the  wharves,  with  their 
commerce  and  extensive  shipping  inter 
ests. 

I  must  mention  a  few  amusing  inci 
dents  that  came  personally  to  my  no 
tice,  during  my  three  week's  sojourn  in 
New  York,  to  show  how  many  ignorant 
people  this  immense  city  contains  and 
what  little  idea  they  have  of  the  magni 
tude  of  the  country  beyond  its  borders. 
While  out  in  company  one  evening 
a  young  gentleman  asked  me  if  we  had 
any  pianos  in  Montana.  I  had  him  re 
peat  his  question,  thinking  he  surely 
could  not  mean  what  he  was  saying; 
187 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

but  when  I  saw  he  really  meant  what 
he  said,  I  looked  at  him  for  a  moment 
then  said,  "YES,  we  have  pianos  in 
Montana,  and  people  that  can  perform 
on  them,"  for  this  same  New  Yorker 
had  been  trying  to  entertain  us  all  the 
evening  on  a  fine  instrument,  but  the 
music  would  make  anyone  want  to 
leave  home. 

At  another  time  I  happened  in  a 
friend's  office.  He  was  called  to  the 
telephone  while  I  was  there,  and  after 
he  had  finished  his  conversation,  he 
turned  to  me  and  said,  "Just  think  of  it, 
I  have  been  talking  to  a  party  nine  miles 
away!"  I  suppose  he  thought  I  had 
never  seen  a  telephone  and  would  run 
when  I  heard  the  bell  ring.  I  looked  at 
him  in  amazement,  for  I  had  talked 
over  the  "phone"  a  distance  of  seven 
hundred  miles,  many  times  in  my  west 
ern  home. 

188 


Greater       N 


e  w        lor 


To  get  on  a  street  car  was  perfectly 
disgusting,  as  I  never  before,  in  all  my 
travels  saw  men — I  cannot  call  them 
gentlemen — keep  seated  in  a  street  car 
and  allow  ladies  to  stand  for  miles, 
holding  onto  the  straps.  I  would  say 
to  these  people  that  they  need  to  travel 
some  and  broaden  their  narrow  minded 
ideas.  If  one  of  those  men  were  rid 
ing  on  our  street  cars  in  Butte,  he 
would  be  made  to  feel  so  uncomfort 
able,  that  he  would  stand  up  or  get  off 
at  the  next  corner.  I  will  add  further, 
that  in  a  business  way,  it  does  seem 
pitiful  to  see  old  gray  headed  men,  who 
have  brought  up  their  sons  and  even 
their  grandsons  in  the  same  line,  work 
ing  along  like  machines,  doing  what 
someone  else  tells  them  to  do.  I  found 
very  few  men  who  knew  their  own  indi 
viduality;  instead  of  stopping  to  think 
and  using  their  own  brains,  they  allow 

189 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

others  to  think  for  them,  looking  only 
to  their  present  compensation,  instead 
of  accomplishing  something  for  them 
selves. 

After  visiting  the  principal  places  of 
interest  in  New  York  and  Brooklyn,  I 
took  "The  Bay  State  Limited,"  for 
Boston,  Massachusetts. 


190 


BOSTON,  THE  EASTERN  HUB 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 
Boston,  the  Eastern  Hub. 

I  passed  on  the  way  through  the 
State  of  Connecticut,  with  a  short  stop 
at  the  "Elm  City"  and  metropolis,  New 
Haven,  an  important  commercial  and 
manufacturing  center.  I  also  stopped 
at  Providence,  the  capital  and  largest 
city  of  Rhode  Island,  where  there  are 
important  shipping  interests. 

I  arrived  at  Boston,  the  capital  and 
largest  city  in  the  State  of  Massachu 
setts,  and  fifth  city  of  the  nation.  Bos 
ton  is  one  of  the  chief  commercial  and 
literary  cities  of  America;  has  an  ex 
tensive  foreign  and  coasting  trade,  with 
numerous  steamship  lines'  and  is  the 
terminus  of  many  railroads.  While 
here  I  visited  all  the  important  and  in 
teresting  parts  of  original  Boston, 
193 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

Charleston,  Somerville,  Back  Bay, 
Cambridge  and  Brookline.  Also  State 
street,  famous  in  history,  and  the  state 
capitol,  where  hundreds  of  flags  of  the 
Indian,  Revolutionary  and  Civil  Wars 
are  kept  for  public  inspection,  showing, 
all  tattered  and  torn  and  with  many 
blood  stains,  what  the  early  settlers  of 
this  patriotic  city  had  to  undergo. 

I  also  visited  the  site  of  Bunker  Hill, 
Bunker  Hill  monument,  Harvard  uni 
versity,  Boston  public  gardens,  Faneuil 
hall,  public  library,  art  galleries  and 
many  monuments  and  statues. 

One  day,  as  I  was  viewing  the  statue 
of  a  long  since  departed  hero,  a  Bos- 
tonian  eastern  friend,  who  was  show 
ing  me  the  sights  of  the  city,  said: 
"You  have  nothing  like  this  in  the 
west."  I  appeared  to  be  sad,  and  said 
"No."  He  looked  at  me  with  pity, 
which  caused  me  to  smile,  remarking 
194 


Boston,      the      Eastern      Hub 

that  I  had  noticed  that  here  and  else 
where  in  the  east,  the  heroes  had  mon 
uments  or  statues  erected  to  their  mem 
ory,  whilst  our  heroes  in  the  west  were 
alive  and  above  ground,  and  did  not 
need  statues  or  monuments.  And  as  I 
had  found  practically  an  entire  city 
from  Washington  to  Boston,  I  decided 
that  some  of  the  people  should  go  be 
yond  the  Missouri,  to  the  Rockies  or 
the  Pacific  Coast,  and  get  their  ideas  en 
larged  and  advance  with  that  bright  and 
enterprising  class  of  people,  that  are 
pushing  ahead  and  building  up  the  most 
prosperous  section  of  our  nation. 

The  State  of  Massachusetts  has 
numerous  important  manufacturing 
towns,  the  principal  ones  being  Lowell, 
Fall  River,  Holyoke  and  Lawrence, 
having  extensive  cotton  factories ;  Wor 
cester,  Springfield  and  Taunton,  with 
iron  and  steel  industries;  Lynn,  boot, 
195 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

shoe  and  harness  factories.  Also  the 
important  fishing  towns  of  Gloucester, 
Yarmouth  and  Provincetown. 

It  has  over  three  hundred  miles  of 
coast  line,  bordering  on  the  Atlantic 
ocean,  with  the  principal  harbors  at 
Boston,  Salem,  Beverly,  New  Bedford 
and  Marblehead. 

Shipbuilding  is  largely  carried  on  at 
Boston,  Newburyport  and  Essex.  The 
largest  arsenal  and  armory  in  the  Unit 
ed  States  is  at  Springfield.  The  State 
has  numerous  universities,  colleges  and 
normal  schools,  in  addition  to  its  excel 
lent  public  schools.  Boston  is  well  sup 
plied  with  depots.  Besides  numerous 
smaller  ones,  it  has  the  beautiful  New 
South  Terminal  station  of  the  Michi 
gan  Central,  Boston  and  Albany,  and 
New  York  Central  Railways,  which  is 
one  of  the  finest  and  largest  railway  de 
pots  in  the  world,  and  is  conveniently 
196 


Boston,     the      Eastern      Hub 

located  to  the  center  of  the  city;  and 
the  large  union  depot  of  the  Boston 
and  Maine  Railroad,  from  where  I  left, 
one  warm  June  evening,  wending  my 
way  along  the  coast  of  New  Hamp 
shire,  through  the  State  of  Maine,  and 
across  the  Canadian  border,  to  Fred- 
ericton,  New  Brunswick. 


197 


FREDERICTON  AND  THE 
MARITIME  PROVINCES 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Fredericton  and  the    Maritime 
Provinces. 

I  remained  most  of  the  summer  at 
hotel  "Windsor  Hall,"  which  is  cen 
trally  located,  and  the  most  modern  in 
the  city,  surrounded  by  the  most  beau 
tiful  shade  trees,  lawn  and  balcony, 
making  it  a  perfect  spot  to  while  away 
the  summer  months.  Every  attention 
was  rendered  to  aid  in  my  enjoyment 
and  I  found  everything  pleasing  at  this 
fashionable  resort. 

Fredericton,  the  capital  and  port  of 
entry  of  the  Province  of  New  Bruns 
wick,  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  point  of 
land  known  as  St.  Ann's  Point,  on  the 
St.  John  river,  eighty-five  miles  from 
its  mouth. 


201 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

Here  are  the  capitol  buildings,  in 
cluding  a  fine  public  library;  and  the 
crown  land  office,  where  a  fine  collec 
tion  of  birds  and  wild  game  of  the 
Province  may  be  seen. 

Fredericton  is  the  headquarters  of 
the  Royal  Canadian  Regiment  for  New 
Brunswick. 

The  university  of  New  Brunswick, 
the  Provincial  normal  school,  as  well  as 
its  excellent  public  schools  are  endow 
ed  by  the  province,  and  in  fact  all  the 
schools  are  partly  supported  by  a  gov 
ernment  allowance. 

It  has  a  large  shoe  factory,  tannery, 
iron  foundry  and  carriage  factories, 
and  adjoining,  both  above  and  below 
the  city,  are  extensive  sawmills. 

Three  miles  from  Fredericton  is  the 
manufacturing  town  of  Marysville, 
with  large  cotton  factory,  flour  and 
saw  mills. 

202 


Freclericton  and  the  Maritime  Provinces 

Fredericton  has  connection  with  the 
Canadian  Pacific,  from  its  main  line, 
at  Fredericton  Junction;  the  same  rail 
road  also  crosses  the  river  on  a  steel 
bridge,  and  extends  to  Woodstock, 
Grand  Falls  and  Edmundston,  through 
the  Province,  and  connects  at  Rivere  du 
Loup,  Province  of  Quebec,  with  the 
Intercolonial  Railway,  which  is  a  gov 
ernment  railroad.  The  Canada  Eastern 
Railway  connects  at  Chatham  Junction 
with  the  Intercolonial,  traversing  the 
central  portion  of  the  province.  Four 
miles  up  the  river  is  the  Douglas  Boom 
for  the  rafting  of  logs  that  come  down 
the  river  St.  John  and  its  tributaries, 
and  after  being  rafted  are  towed  to  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  where  they  are  saw 
ed  into  lumber  and  shipped  to  all  parts 
of  the  world. 

Fredericton  is  an  ideal  spot,  with  its 
magnificent  homes,  beautiful  lawns  and 
203 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

shade  trees  and  its  many  driveways,  ex 
tending  across  the  bridge  to  St.  Mary's, 
Gibson,  Marysville  and  on  up  that  pic 
turesque  and  beautiful  Nashwaak  val 
ley,  where  I  had  many,  many  drives, 
and  where  I  enjoyed  a  picnic  one  fine 
summer  afternoon  upon  the  lawn  in  the 
grove,  in  front  of  the  magnificent  resi 
dence  of  Mr.  M.  White,  the  most  de 
lightful  spot  along  the  whole  valley, 
with  its  broad  productive  intervals 
skirting  the  river.  Then  another  pleas 
ant  drive  is  passing  Nashwaaksis,  and 
through  Douglas,  viewing  the  numer 
ous  islands,  along  the  St.  John  river 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Keswick,  the 
branches  of  the  fruit  trees  hanging  to 
the  ground  under  their  heavy  loads  of 
delicious  fruits. 

Another  pleasant  time  was  the  pri 
vate  picnic  held  on  the  lawns  at  the 
Old    Government    House,    where    the 
204 


Fredericton  and  the  Maritime  Provinces 

present  king  of  England  was  entertain 
ed  during  his  visit  to  Fredericton. 

I  had  a  delightful  sail  on  the  steam 
er  Victoria,  down  the  river  to  the  city 
of  St.  John,  an  important  seaport  with 
extensive  maritime  and  manufacturing 
interests,  sawmills,  shipyards  and  iron 
foundries.  St.  John  is  a  railway  cen 
ter,  having  the  eastern  transportation 
and  shipping  busines's  of  the  Canadian 
Pacific. 

The  Intercolonial  Railway  has  its 
headquarters  at  Moncton.  Across 
Northumberland  Strait  is  the  Province 
of  Prince  Edward  Island.  The  capital 
and  principal  city  is  Charlottetown. 

South  across  the  Bay  of  Fundy  is  the 
Province  of  Nova  Scotia,  which,  with 
the  other  two  mentioned,  constitute  the 
Maritime  Provinces.  Its  capital  and 
chief  winter  port  is  Halifax,  which  has 
the  principal  naval  station,  and  is'  the 
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Leaves       of       Knowledge 

headquarters  of  the  imperial  army  in 
British  North  America. 

After  my  sight  seeing  in  this  section, 
I  returned  to  Fredericton,  and  making 
my  final  adieus,  I  departed  on  the  Ca 
nadian  Pacific  for  Augusta,  Maine. 


206 


WESTWARD  TO  CHICAGO 


CHAPTER  XXV. 
Westward  to  Chicago. 

Passing  through  Bangor,  the  port  of 
entry,  at  the  head  of  steam  navigation 
on  the  Penobscot  river,  I  reach  the  cap 
ital  of  the  State  of  Maine.  I  visited 
the  capitol  buildings  and  several  feat 
ures  of  interest  in  this  rustling  and  en 
terprising  city  of  Augusta. 

Portland,  the  largest  city  and  most 
important  seaport  of  the  state,  has  a 
valuable  coast  trade,  with  fisheries  and 
manufactures,  besides  being  a  promi 
nent  railroad  terminus.  While  here  I 
took  several  car  rides,  seeing  all  I 
could  of  the  city  for  I  had  been  led  to 
believe  that  Portland,  Oregon,  and 
Portland,  Maine,  were  similar,  but  I 
will  think  so  no  more,  for  I  must  say 
I  was  disappointed  with  Portland,  Me. 
209 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

I  passed  on  through  Portsmouth,  the 
only  seaport  in  the  State  of  New  Hamp 
shire,  having  an  excellent  harbor  and 
considerable  shipbuilding  interests. 
This  is  also  a  famous  summer  resort. 
Reaching  Boston,  I  took  the  Fitchburg 
route,  changing  at  Troy,  for  Albany, 
the  capital  of  the  State  of  New  York. 

The  city  is  at  the  head  of  navigation 
of  the  Hudson  river,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  in  America,  with  its 
commerce  passing  through  its  "open 
door"  down  the  historic  Hudson  river, 
through  the  Erie  canal  and  over  the 
New  York  Central  lines. 

I  visited  the  capitol  building  and 
other  place's  of  interest  surrounding1 
the  city.  Down  the  river  are  the  towns 
of  Kingston  and  Poughkeepsie  and  the 
United  States  Military  Academy  at 
West  Point.  A  short  distance  west 
is  Schnectady,  where  is  located 
210 


Westward       to       Chicago 

the  General  Electric  Company,  that 
manufactures  the  greatest  amount 
of  electrical  appliances  in  the 
world.  The  second  largest  locomo 
tive  works  on  the  globe  are  also  located 
here.  Still  further  west  is  Utica,  then 
Syracuse,  a  manufacturing  and  import 
ant  railroad  center.  Passing  the  man 
ufacturing  city  of  Rochester,  brings  me 
to  Niagara  Falls,  the  crowning  glory 
of  the  State  of  New  York,  and  the 
greatest  cataract  on  the  American  con 
tinent. 

Buffalo,  the  second  city  in  the  State 
of  New  York,  has  extensive  lake  com 
merce  in  grain,  live-stock,  coal  and  lum 
ber  trade. 

Erie,  Pennsylvania,  is  a  port  of  en 
try  on  Lake  Erie,  having  extensive 
iron  manufactures  and  a  large  trade. 

Cleveland,  Ohio,  has  important 
steamboat  and  railroad  traffic,  with 
211 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

large  oil  refineries,,  iron  and  steel  man 
ufactories. 

Toledo,  on  Lake  Erie,  has  a  fine  har 
bor  with  important  commerce. 

I  pass  through  the  manufacturing 
town  of  South  Bend,  Indiana,  on  to 
Chicago,  having  a  very  pleasant  trip 
over  the  New  York  Central,  and  Lake 
Shore  and  Michigan  Southern  Rail 
roads,  where  the  finest  equipped  Pull 
man  sleeping  and  parlor  cars,  the  most 
delicious  and  appetizing  meals  were 
served  in  the  dining  cars,  and  the  em 
ployes  devote  their  entire  time,  giving 
every  attention  and  comfort  to  its  many 
passengers. 

Chicago  is  the  second  city  in  the 
United  States,  made  so  by  its  energetic 
citizens  and  the  enormous  trade  on  the 
Great  Lakes,  in  addition  to  its  railroads, 
extending  in  every  direction  over  the 
continent.  When  I  was  here  in  1893, 
212 


Westward      to       Chicago 

attending  the  World's  Fair,  I  made  a 
trip  east  via.  Detroit,  Michigan,  the 
City  of  the  Straits,  with  its  busy  fac 
tories,  and  Toronto,  the  capital  and 
leading  commercial  city  of  the  Province 
of  Ontario,  with  Montreal,  the  metrop 
olis  for  the  dominion,  at  the  head  of 
ocean  navigation,  and  Ottawa,  the  cap 
ital  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  with  its 
extensive  lumber  trade.  Also  Quebec, 
the  capital  of  the  Province  of  Quebec, 
with  her  large  exports  of  lumber  and 
shipbuilding  industries,  and  then  down 
the  St.  Lawrence  river,  which  empties 
into  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  I  then 
realized,  with  the  combined  trade  of 
the  cities  south  of  the  Great  Lakes  on 
the  American  side,  what  makes  Chicago 
important,  controlling  the  shipping  of 
the  Great  Lakes  through  Lake  Michi 
gan,  and  the  commerce  and  manufac- 


213 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

turing   of   the  west   by   its   extensive 
railway  facilities. 

From  Chicago,  I  go  to  St.  Paul,  over 
the  Chicago  and  Northwestern  Limit 
ed — that  train  of  fame — passing  Mad 
ison,  the  university  city  and  capital  of 
the  State  of  Wisconsin. 


214 


ST.  PAUL  TO  LIVINGSTON 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 
St.  Paul  to  Livingston. 

St.  Paul,  the  capital  of  Minnesota, 
and  second  city  in  population,  is  the 
head  of  navigation  of  the  Mississippi 
river,  and  an  important  railroad  dis 
tributing  center.  Trains  connect  from 
here  with  Duluth,  at  the  head  of  Lake 
Superior,  which  is  a  prominent  railway 
terminus  at  the  head  of  navigation  on 
the  Great  Lakes. 

There  is  also  direct  railway  connec 
tion  with  the  Canadian  Pacific  Rail 
way  at  Winnipeg,  the  capital,  largest 
city  and  railroad  center  of  the  Province 
of  Manitoba,  Dominion  of  Canada. 

At    St.    Paul    is   being   erected   the 

magnificent  new  capitol  building,  which 

when  completed  will  give  the  State  of 

Minnesota  the  most  elaborate  and  sight- 

217 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

ly  capitol  building  of  any  State"  in  the 
Union. 

The  city  is  well  supplied  with  large 
wholesale  establishments,  fine  business 
blocks  and  beautiful  homes.  Near  here, 
at  Stillwater,  is  the  State  penitentiary. 

And  connected  by  street  car  lines,  a 
distance  of  eleven  miles  west,  is  the 
city  of  Minneapolis,  the  largest  in  the 
state,  with  extensive  lumber  and  flour 
mills,  operated  by  the  water  power  of 
the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  numer 
ous  manufacturing  establishments. 

After  a  pleasant  stop  in  this  section, 
I  took  the  "North  Coast  Limited,"  on 
the  Northern  Pacific  Railway,  and  con 
tinued  west  through  Minnesota.  At 
Winnipeg  Junction,  the  Manitoba 
branch  runs  to  Crookston,  Minnesota, 
Grand  Forks,  Grafton  and  Pembina, 
North  Dakota,  and  Winnipeg,  Mani 
toba. 

218 


St.     Paul     to     Livingston 

Fargo,  the  first  city  I  reach  in  North 
Dakota,  is  the  largest  in  the  state,  with 
several  railway  connections  and  is  ex 
tensively  engaged  in  the  sale  of  agri 
cultural  implements.  It  is  also  a  great 
wheat  market. 

Bismarck,  the  capital,  is  situated  on 
the  Missouri  river,  where  our  train 
crosses  the  river  to  Mandan,  and  here 
our  time  is  changed  to  one  hour  earlier, 
making  it  "mountain  time." 

The  porter  awakened  me  at  4  a.  m., 
stating  that  we  were  nearing  Glendive, 
and  as  it  is  the  first  town  we  reach  in 
my  home  state,  I  desired  to  walk  on 
Montana  soil  after  such  a  long  inter 
mission. 

As  I  stepped  from  the  Pullman,  the 
morning  air  was  so  fresh  and  exhilarat 
ing.  The  nights  were  cool  and  clear, 
but  the  days  were  hotter  than  any  I  had 
experienced  on  my  entire  eastern  trip. 
219 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

It  is'  no  wonder  that  the  Montana  peo 
ple  are  so  cheerful,  when  there  is  so 
much  beautiful  sunshine. 

It  being  the  Glendive  annual  fair 
week,  I  noticed  that  the  people  certain 
ly  know  how  to  enjoy  themselves  on 
such  occasions,  with  their  horse-racing 
and  ball  games.  As  I  sat  on  the  bal 
cony  of  the  hotel  and  watched  the  nu 
merous  carriages,  taking  passengers  to 
and  fro  from  the  fair  grounds,  and 
there  were  many  on  horseback,  I 
thought  of  the  places  that  I  had  visit 
ed,  and  it  gave  me  more  pleasure  than 
in  any  town  I  had  visited,  to  see  the 
Glendive  citizens  celebrate,  for  every 
time  I  have  been  here,  I  found  them  all 
happy  and  having  a  good  time.  They 
are  a  bright,  energetic  class  of  people. 

Again  taking  the  Northern  Pacific 
west,  following  the  Yellowstone  river, 
crossing  the  Big  Horn  river,  I  come  in 

220 


St.     Paul    to     Living  s^t  on 

view  of  Pompey's  Pillar,  climbed  and 
named  by  Captain  Clarke  of  the  Lewis 
and  Clarke  expedition  in  1806.  I  made 
a  brief  stop  at  Billings,  where  every 
thing  was  lively,  the  cattle  and  sheep 
were  being  shipped  to  the  stockyards 
and  packing  houses  of  Chicago,  St. 
Paul  and  Omaha.  The  third  crop  of  al 
falfa  was  being  cut  in  the  country  sur 
rounding  the  city  of  Billings,  and  the 
immense  stacks  of  hay  loomed  up  in  the 
distance,  to  be  used  for  the  winter  feed 
ing  of  the  stock. 

I  followed  the  Yellowstone  river  to 
Livingston,  arriving  near  the  close  of 
the  summer  travel  to  the  Yellowstone 
National  Park. 


THE  YELLOWSTONE 
NATIONAL  PARK 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 
The  Yellowstone  National  Park. 

The  park  is  situated  in  the  North 
west  corner  of  the  State  of  Wyoming, 
overlapping  a  few  miles  into  Montana 
on  the  north,  and  Montana  and  Idaho 
on  the  west,  in  the  heart  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  is  about  sixty-five  miles 
east  and  west  and  seventy-five  miles 
north  and  south. 

None  of  the  valleys  are  less  than 
6,000  feet,  while  many  of  the  moun 
tain  peaks  rise  to  10,000  and  even  14,- 
ooo  feet  above  the  sea-level.  Three 
of  the  largest  rivers  in  the  United 
States,  the  Missouri,  Yellowstone  and 
Columbia,  have  their  sources  in  the 
Yellowstone  Park.  Yellowstone  Lake, 
fifteen  by  twenty  miles  in  size,  is  the 
largest  body  of  water,  at  an  altitude  of 
225 


L  e  a  v  es      of       Knowledge 

8,000  feet,  in  America.  The  other 
lakes  are  Shoshone,  Lewis  and  Heart 
Lakes.  The  falls  of  the  Yellowstone 
are  most  magnificent.  The  Grand  Can 
yon,  ten  miles  long,  with  an  average 
depth  of  over  a  thousand  feet,  is  one  of 
the  most  brilliantly  colored  landscapes 
in  existence.  The  geysers  outclass  any 
thing  in  the  world.  Cliffs  of  volcanic 
origin,  mountains  of  petrifactions 
beautiful  waterfalls,  hills  of  brimstone, 
snow-capped  peaks,  charming  valleys 
with  thousands  of  natural  curiosities, 
make  this  the  wonderland  of  the  world. 
The  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  is 
where  the  Mammoth  Hotel  and  Fort 
Yellowstone  are  situated.  Substantial 
roads  and  bridges  have  been  construc- 
ed  from  Gardner,  on  the  very  edge  of 
the  park  and  the  terminus  of  the  Yel 
lowstone  Park  branch  of  the  Northern 
Pacific  Railroad,  to  all  the  chief  at- 

226 


The   Yellowstone    National    Park 

tractions  in  this  government  national 
park,  for  the  protection  and  enjoyment 
of  the  numerous  people  from  all  parts 
of  the  civilized  globe  who  come  to  visit 
this  beautiful  spot  of  nature. 

At  Gardner  the  Northern  Pacific 
Company  has  erected  an  attractive  and 
unique  depot,  made  of  logs  from  the 
Bitter  Root  valley.  The  same  company 
has  erected  the  most  magnificent  depot 
in  the  west,  at  Livingston,  the  headquar 
ters  for  all  the  National  Park  travel. 
The  division  headquarters  and  shops 
for  the  company  are  located  here. 

Livingston  is  situated  on  the  Yel 
lowstone  river,  and  is  the  center  of  an 
extensive  stock  and  farming  country. 
There  are  numerous  producing  coal  and 
quartz  mines  adjacent  to  the  city,  which 
is  the  distributing  and  supply  point. 
Valuable  quartz  mines  are  at  Jardine, 
Bear  Gulch  and  Cooke  City,  and  the 

227 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

coal  mines  are  at  Cokedale,  Aldridge 
and  Horr,  and  beyond  the  Bozeman 
tunnel  are  the  coal  mines  of  Chestnut 
and  Storr. 

At  Lombard,  the  Montana  Railroad 
extends  to  Lewistown,  the  principal 
town  in  the  Judith  country.  This  town 
has  made  great  strides  of  late  years, 
and  on  the  event  of  the  railroad  this 
fall  will  make  greater  improvements,  as 
it  is  the  supply  headquarters  for  the 
ranching  country  and  the  mines  of  Gilt 
Edge  and  Kendall,  besides  the  enor 
mous  sheep  and  cattle  industries  of  the 
Judith  and  Musselshell  countries. 

The  railroad  branches  at  Summit 
for  Leadboro,  the  Castle  lead  mines. 

At  Dorsey  the  coaches  meet  the 
trains  for  White  Sulphur  Springs. 

Townsend,  on  the  main  line  of  the 
Northern  Pacific,  is  in  the  center  of  the 


228 


The   Yellowstone    National    Park 

rich  farms  of  the  Missouri  valley,  with 
numerous  mines  close  by. 

I  again  cross  the  Missouri  river, 
passing  the  mining  town  of  Winston, 
reaching  the  capital  of  our  state,  Hel 
ena,  on  the  25th  day  of  October,  1903, 
having  traveled  with  my  companion 
during  the  last  eight  months,  a  dis 
tance  of  over  twenty-four  thousand 
miles. 


229 


MONTANA'S  CAPITAL 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 
Montana's  Capital. 

Since  my  last  visit  to  Helena,  the 
government  has  erected  a  commodious 
and  substantial  Federal  building. 

The  Northern  Pacific  and  Great  Nor 
thern  Railway  Companies  have  just 
completed  a  fine  union  depot,  which 
adds  much  to  the  appearance  of  the  city. 

On  December  ist,  an  extraordinary 
session  of  the  legislature  was  called, 
bringing  to  the  capital  many  acquaint 
ances  from  other  sections  of  the  state, 
and  made  a  continual  stir  and  bustle  for 
two  weeks.  Then  came  the  holiday 
season,  causing  the  city  generally  to 
show  great  evidence  of  prosperity. 

Montana  has  every  reason  to  be 
proud  of  its  state  capitol,  which  is  lo 
cated  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  city  on 
233 


Leaves       of       Knowledge 

a  plat  of  ten  acres,  donated  to  the  state. 
The  building  is  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  in  length  by  one  hundred  and  thirty 
in  width.  From  the  center  of  the  build 
ing  rises  the  dome,  which  is  covered 
with  copper  and  crowned  by  the  statue 
of  liberty.  Arrangements  have  been 
made  for  planting  the  entire  ground 
with  trees,  which  will,  with  growth, 
give  a  pleasant  appearance. 

I  very  much  admired  the  gov 
ernor's  reception  room,  twenty  by 
forty  feet  in  size.  The  room  is 
beautifully  decorated  in  green  and 
red.  The  chandelier  is  as  elaborate 
when  lighted  as  any  I  have  ever  seen. 
The  harmony  of  the  color  effect  and  the 
blending  is  perfectly  grand.  There  are 
larger  and  more  costly  state  buildings 
in  other  parts  of  the  union,  but  for 
beanty  and  design,  there  are  none  that 
excel  the  capitol  of  Montana.  The  su- 
234 


Montana's        Capital 

preme  court  room,  state  officials'  apart 
ments,  senate  chamber,  and  the  house, 
all  blend  in  the  striking  colors  of  green 
and  red.  At  the  head  of  the  grand 
stairway  and  above  an  art  glass  win 
dow,  is  a  painting  presented  by  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railway  Company, 
representing  the  driving  of  its  golden 
spike,  at  Gold  Creek,  Montana,  on  the 
completion  of  the  road  on  September 
1 8th,  1883.  General  U.  S.  Grant  is 
plainly  shown  holding  the  hammer, 
which  drove  the  spike,  finishing  the 
railway  connections  from  the  Atlantic 
to  the  Pacific,  by  this  transcontinental 
line. 

In  the  house  of  representatives,  di 
rectly  over  the  speaker's  desk,  is  a 
painting,  commemorating  the  "Louisi 
ana  Purchase."  In  this  picture  are 
grouped  the  men  who  participated  in 
this  transaction,  though  some  of  them 
235 


Leaves      of       Knowledge 

never  met.  Seated  and  standing  around 
the  table  are  Napoleon  and  Marbois, 
on  behalf  of  the  French  government, 
while  our  country  is  represented  by  Jef 
ferson,  Livingston  and  Monroe.  On 
the  table  is  a  globe,  and  the  map  of  the 
territory  involved. 

The  celebration  in  its  honor  will  be 
gin  May  ist  of  this  present  year,  at  St. 
Louis,  Missouri. 

In  the  senate  chamber  is  a  painting 
over  the  president's  desk  of  "Lewis' 
First  Glimpse  of  the  Rockies."  It 
shows  Lewis  on  a  rocky  point  with  his 
telescope,  catching  a  view  of  the  dis 
tant  Rocky  mountains,  with  his  com 
rades  in  the  background. 

In  honor  of  this  expedition  will  be 
the  "Lewis  and  Clarke  Exposition," 
next  year  at  Portland,  Oregon. 

My  sojourn  in  Helena  coming  to  a 
close,  I  will  now  leave  you  for  the  pres- 
236 


Montana's        Capital 

ent,  and  go  home  to  Butte;  knowing 
that  I  have  given  truthful  information 
to  my  many,  many  readers. 


FINIS. 


237 


